Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?

Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?
By Marc Goldberg
Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.

• Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog's way of saying "this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack." In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.

When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn't expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he'll face a swift correction. But that's rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.

• But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster...a dog who guards something against his very owners.

In this article we'll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.

• The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He's guarding space. Moreover, he's stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.

You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.

• In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That's because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.

I have actually seen adults chastise children for being "impolite" to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as "quirks" of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.

• Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That's why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who's dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.

The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he's getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. "They just don't seem to get it," the dog is thinking. "I'll have to warn them earlier."

• This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don't realize that they're not "supposed to bother the dog." They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.

Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he's laying on the sofa.

• Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.

"Did your baby start walking about a month ago?" I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.

• Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That's why he began to guard space from Lisa too.

While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it's tragic because it usually doesn't need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.

• Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.

We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.

• We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.

The reason we didn't go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn't want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.
But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.

• In short, by sometimes invading Willy's personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior...in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.

Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn't worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.
We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.

• Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now "fleeing" from the baby.

We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.

• Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog's bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.

Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.
Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.

• Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Read more of his articles at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.trainingdogsinchicago.com

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Learn The Secrets To Keeping Your Dog Healthy And Safe and 6 Dog Training Tips For a Well Trained, Well Behaved Pet

Learn The Secrets To Keeping Your Dog Healthy And Safe
By Lorie Huston
Dogs have long been known as "man's best friend". If you own a dog, you've likely already discovered the truth of that statement. Our dogs bring us hours of joy and companionship, provide unconditional love, and ask very little in return. But your dog does rely on you to provide the care required to keep your dog healthy, safe, and happy.

Fortunately, there are many simple things you can do to help maintain your dog's health.
Vaccinations, often simply called "shots", work to protect your dog against many different illnesses which could be quite serious, even fatal, for your dog should your dog catch these diseases. When your dog is fully vaccinated, these diseases no longer pose a significant threat to your dog. Your dog's veterinarian can easily help you determine which vaccinations your dog needs and how often your dog needs to be vaccinated. This will vary depending on your dog's individual lifestyle, your dog's risk of exposure, your dog's age, and your dog's previous vaccination history. If you are unsure which vaccinations your dog needs, or are not sure whether your dog is vaccinated properly, please contact your dog's veterinarian at once.
Fleas and ticks are another risk to your dog's health. Both fleas and ticks can cause significant health problems for your dog. Your dog can also carry these insects into your home where they may also pose a health threat to you and our family. You should check your dog's skin and hair coat regularly for evidence of fleas and ticks and act immediately if you find evidence of them on your dog. Luckily, there are a number of very effective flea and tick medications which are not only safe but easy to use. These products can help keep your dog free of fleas and ticks and assist you in keeping your dog healthy and happy.
Female dogs that are spayed at a young age are less likely to develop breast cancers later in life and cannot develop the serious, life-threatening uterine infections that unspayed female dogs frequently suffer from.
Copyright 2006 The Pet Med Site
Dog training tip #1: Curbing your dog's digging behavior
Dog training tip #2: Potty training your dog
Dog training tip #4: Communicating with your dog
Dog training tip #5: Proper timing in training your dog
Dog training tip #6: Act around your dog
Rilee is an avid dog lover that takes pleasure in spending every possible moment with her animals. Click here: house training a dog [http://www.adogownersdogsite.com] to find out about a home study video program she highly recommends to every dog owner. Click here: free dog care ebook [http://www.adogownersdogsite.com/DogCareSignup.html] to acquire a free report she has designed to present basic care information to dog owners.


One of the most important things you can do for your dog is to make sure your dog is kept up-to-date on all necessary vaccinations.


Another very simple thing that you can do for your dog's health is to make sure your dog is protected against heartworms. Heartworms are, as the name suggests, worms which live inside of your dog's heart. They can cause a great deal of damage to your dog's heart in a very short period of time. Your dog can be exposed to heartworms very easily through the bite of a mosquito.
Fortunately, preventing heartworms is easy and safe, through the use of medications which only need to be administered on a monthly basis. If your dog has not previously been tested for heartworms, a simple blood test performed by your dog's veterinarian can determine whether or not your dog is already infected before starting the preventive medication.


Keeping your dog free of internal parasites, frequently called "worms", is another task which is necessary to keep your dog healthy. Finding out whether your dog is infected with worms is as easy as collecting a small fecal sample to be tested by your dog's veterinarian. Do not assume that your dog has no worms because you do not see them in the stool. Your dog's veterinarian has special laboratory techniques which find the worm eggs in your dog's feces. These eggs are too small for you to be able to see. If your dog's veterinarian finds worms in your dog's feces, there are medications which can safely and effectively be used to rid your dog of these worms. Your dog's veterinarian can provide the proper medication for your dog.
Besides preventing the birth of unwanted puppies, spaying or neutering your dog has a number of health benefits for your dog also.


Neutered male dogs are less likely to develop prostate problems later in life. In addition, your dog's personality and behavior will only improve when spayed or neutered.
Lastly, regular physical examinations by your dog's veterinarian can help detect subtle signs of illness in your dog before the illness becomes serious. Often, early intervention and treatment can solve medical problems even before your dog's health begins to suffer as a result of them. In some instances, early intervention and treatment may drastically prolong the life of your dog.


Lorie Huston has been a veterinarian for over 20 years, working with both dogs and cats. She emphasizes the use of routine preventive pet health care to keep your pets healthy and safe. Lorie is the owner, editor, and webmaster of The Pet Med Site where you will find a library of information pertaining to pet health care, including free audio recordings describing the secrets to keeping your dog or cat healthy. For more information, visit http://www.thepetmedsite.com/dog-health/
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6 Dog Training Tips For a Well Trained, Well Behaved Pet
By Rilee Madison
Dogs are considered man's best friend. Throughout the ages and of all animals, dogs have been man's companion. More than companions, dogs serve a variety of functions. There are working dogs (e.g., police dogs) and dogs that are used as guides for the disabled. Farmers and livestock owners use dogs for herding, and some home owners get dogs specifically to guard their property.
Whatever the primary purpose of a particular breed of dog is, it's important that it receive proper training. Many dog training professionals will attest to the importance of having a well-trained dog. You don't have to be a professional dog trainer to train your dog. You can do simple activities to teach your pet how to behave.


As a dog owner, you need to understand that dogs are social animals. When they are lonely or alone, dogs resort to digging. Loneliness isn't the only reason dogs dig, though. In some instances, dogs that dig are experiencing some sort of nutrient deficiency. To make up for this condition, dogs oftentimes would eat the dirt they dig. If your dog tends to dig a lot, spend more time with him. It also pays to have your dog checked up to make sure that his health is in good condition.


A reward-based method works best when potty training your dog. To use this method, give your dog a treat after it potties in the right place. Following up good behavior with a reward will make it easier for your dog to remember doing good behavior.
Dog training tip #3: Repetition is key
Whenever you are trying to teach your dog something -- whether it's a trick or making your dog obey a command -- repetition is important. Repetition and consistency are keys that will help your dog understand a command. To test if your dog knows a command after so many repetitions, test him without any assistance. Do this at least three consecutive times to make sure that your dog's grasp of a command is not simply a fluke.


When training your dog to follow a certain command or do a certain thing, it's vital that you not just issue the command out. It's also important that you direct your dog how to perform a command or drill as well as correct your dog if he doesn't follow the command properly. Be consistent when you are issuing out commands and trying to teach your dog to develop certain behaviors. For instance, if you are trying to teach your dog not to chew on slippers or shoes, do not praise him one day when you see him chewing on a slipper.


It's always best -- and professional dog trainers will recommend this -- to train your dog when it is still a puppy. When it comes to training dogs, it is indeed true that old dogs can't learn new tricks. So start training your dog early.
Dog training tip #6: Let your dog know you're the boss
Dogs are pack animals, which means they follow a hierarchy. Thus, when training your dog, it's important that you establish yourself as the alpha dog (the leader). Your dog needs to understand that he is the submissive being. Avoid showing any fear when your dog snaps back. Doing so will break the established hierarchy you have with your dog. When your dog is doing his exercises, never allow your dog to stop mid-way or not complete the exercise. Firmly let your dog know that it should do what you, the alpha dog, wants him to do.


Your puppy will naturally want to chew on things so give your puppy an outlet for his chewing urges. You can give your puppy a chew bone to chew. If your puppy tries to chew on you, yelp loudly, fold your arms and ignore your puppy for about ten minutes. When a puppy becomes too rough on other puppies, the others yelp and tend to ignore the puppy. However, you may need to assess your puppy's personality because he may react to the yelping by biting more and even harder. If this happens, you may need to apply a more aggressive approach.


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Dog Destructive Behavior and Dog Aggression - The Exercise Solution

Dog Destructive Behavior and Dog Aggression - The Exercise Solution
By Rena Murray

Why is your dog displaying destructive tendencies? Many people erroneously believe that destructive dog behavior means their dog is punishing them for being left alone. This is quite untrue, as most dog trainers and dog behaviorists will confirm. Let me show you with examples from with my two young rescued dogs, along with a couple of basic dog training pointers.

All dogs have a lot of energy. The more high energy the breed, the more exercise your canine requires. If you have a problem with dog hyperactivity or over-excitation, insufficient exercise may be a root cause. The same holds true for destructive behavior in dogs.
What to do?
Walks and ball-chasing are great ways for your dog to exercise. That is a daily requirement. Also, you can put the dog on a treadmill for 30 minutes or so. Yes, it is good for dogs just as for people, for cardio-vascular health, weight control, muscle toning, and stress release.
Psychological challenges are very critical, too, in reducing destructive or aggressive behaviors. Common challenges experienced on walks include such "attractive nuisances" as passing cyclists, squirrels taunting the would-be chaser, and the inevitable encounters with other humans and dogs. These can make a dog very excited, forgetting his leash training, and sometimes incite his protective, territorial, or dominance instincts or aggressive tendencies.

I never allow my dogs to say hello to humans or other dogs when they are over-excited. Greeting an unfamiliar dog this way is rude in the dog world.

The younger of my two dogs, Joy, does tend to become over-excited when she sees another dog. Sometimes I remove her from the situation. Other times I have her sit or lie down as the other dog walks by. Sometimes I intentionally expose her as a training exercise.
Joy is catching on as any dog will, and is rewarded with permission to say hello if she is calm. As she learns to control this excitement during her exercise walks, her self-control and obedience in other areas increases as well . . . including right behavior if alone, and avoidance of destructive or aggressive tendencies.
The coming together of two over-excited dogs for a first-time meeting (quite different from the understandably excited greeting of old friends) can result in a fight. Not always, but frequently. The overly-excited dogs must be separated.
In a first-time meeting of two dogs, if aggression seems evident, WALK the dogs together with the people in between to separate and control them. (This can also be done with one excited and one calm dog, but not with two over-excited ones.) Have two people take them on walks together regularly until they acclimate. That's what we do.

With my dogs, there was no aggression but clear excitement on Joy's part when they were introduced, but obviously time was needed for the two to explore each other and to establish a pecking order. With only one excited pup, a friend and I frequently walk the two dogs together.

As the dogs get worn out from the joint walk, they are more calm and relaxed with each other. Aggression toward each other or general "snits" are far less likely then, and they are too tired to tear up a yard or house!
I have no destructive dog behavior problems with my dogs because they are walked about two miles every day. They also have at least an hour of playtime with each other or with me daily. Note: There is nothing wrong with more than one hour of play -- Just be sure you control it!
I also gave Joy plenty of toys as a young pup, so she always had something of her own on which to chew and did not suffer from boredom. She loved her toys, and so she had no interest in my things. She even recognized the names I gave to her individual toys, and by six-seven months old, she would retrieve the specific toy from her toy box on command and bring it to me for play!

With Labrador blood and a great mouthing need, Joy also destroyed her toys faster and more completely than I have ever seen anywhere. Even things labeled indestructible! She viewed that as her hunt and kill duty and displayed her handiwork with great pride. She felt she had a purpose as she accepted and destroyed her own things -- never mine. We had NO destructive chewing problem with this puppy, even during the teething periods, which is almost unheard of for a Lab!

Destructive behavior in mature dogs is caused by energy bursts. If the energy is drained through exercise, however, there is no need to tear something up to get rid of the energy. Obsessive behavior of any kind in a dog -- from jumping, running, fixation on balls, whatever -- a result of an energy burst.
The solution? Exercise!

Aggressive dogs need more exercise than any other. Aggression usually comes out in a dog who is anxious, fearful, undisciplined, or dominant. Aggression dog dominance, people aggression, and other dog aggression issues will be addressed in other articles and are not within the purview of this one. However, it is important to note that while taking away the dog's energy through exercise does not solve the underlying problem, nevertheless, it sure helps to lessen its impact!

Owners must be cognizant of their dogs' exercise requirements. It is not an option nor a matter of what is convenient. It is a necessity! Do not have a dog if you cannot provide for this most basic need.
Remember, too, that any sort of dog behavior you don't like must be handled immediately. Dogs live in the moment and stay in it until it is addressed.

Rena Murray is a professional Dog Obedience Trainer and Dog Behaviorist with extensive Dog Behavior Modification experience. Committed to helping Dog Owners as well as Pets, Rena seeks to educate as many people as possible through her self-help articles on Dog Behavior, Training a Dog, Aggression Dog Dominance, Dog Breeds, Shelter Dogs, Puppy Training, Dog House Training, Dog Training Equipment, and related matters posed by clients and bloggers. Rena also publishes a free e-mail newsletter: PAW PERSUASION POINTERS to help people better understand communication and control of their dogs, debunk dog training myths, explore right and wrong dog training techniques for specific situations, address destructive dog behavior, excessive and obsessive dog behavior, and other canine issues and concerns, from new puppy to old dog. Subscribe for free and obtain other free articles at http://www.PawPersuasion.com.

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Introducing Two Dogs - Have a Safe Introduction

Introducing Two Dogs - Have a Safe Introduction
By Tyler Brown
 Human beings are bound by certain social rules and etiquettes. Dogs are too, however, their rules are entirely different from our rules. For example, it is rare that one person meets another person and within seconds begins a violent fight. This behavior, however, is very common with our canine friends. Introducing two dogs in public is an art and an exercise in training and control. You must be prepared if you are going to avoid not only dog fights, but if you are to steer clear of dog illnesses and other problems when introducing two dogs.

• When I have my dogs in public the first rule I live by is 'assume the worst'. What I mean by this is that I assume that most other dogs out there are ill-behaved and not dog friendly. I know this sounds extreme and perhaps rude but honestly, am I that far off? If you assume this position you will be correct a majority of the time. Most dogs in public are poorly trained and poorly socialized and shouldn't be counted on to automatically get along with your dog.

So how do you go about introducing two dogs with such assumptions? The short answer is, I don't. When I am in public, generally speaking, I keep my dogs separate from other dogs I encounter. Do I know if the approaching dog is current with his shots, do I know if the other dog is dog aggressive? The answer is no. Why would I introduce my dog into such an unknown situation where he could get injured from a fight or sick from an illness?

 The next assumption I typically make is 'assume the other dog owner knows nothing about dogs'. When I approach another dog owner on the street or in a park I often find that they are eager to have their dog meet both my dog and me. I often hear comforting words such as, "Oh, he's fine with other dogs," or, "It's ok, he's friendly." Well the truth is that maybe their dog has been friendly with a few dogs but who is to say that their dog will be friendly with my dog? I was once walking with a client and their dog down a path in the woods when along came a beautiful Airedale Terrier. As we approached the owner of the terrier called out, "He's friendly!" following which the dog immediately proceeded to lunge at the leash while barking quite aggressively, obviously looking for a fight. Both I and my client's dog barely missed being bit as the other owner was nearly pulled over. Ever since this experience, and many similar ones, I have realized that I can't trust the judgment of other dog owners.

As a result of this style of thinking I religiously avoid dog parks. They are the bane of the dog world and should be avoided at all costs. They are a recipe for disease and fighting. You would be wise to avoid these settings.
Am I being too much of an extremist? No, I don't think so. In doing this I am almost guaranteeing a safe outing everywhere I go. You may be asking, "But what about socialization? Shouldn't my dog learn to get along with other dogs?" The answer is yes, but only under controlled settings.
I am very careful about the children that my young daughter meets. I try to avoid having her meet kids who are bullies or sick. Why wouldn't I do the same for my dog? Whenever I allow my dogs to meet new dogs I do so only when the situation is controlled.

So what is a controlled situation? It could be a variety of settings, but typically a controlled situation is one where I am familiar with the other dog owner, familiar with the other dog and feel that said owner can control said dog. A controlled situation finds both dogs on leash and under control. When introducing two dogs I am always confident that I can control my dog so I need to make sure I partner up with someone else who can also control their dog. With all of these ducks in a row I am ready to introduce my dog to the other dog.

As I said, both dogs are on leash so the first step is allowing the other dogs to be near each other to see initial reactions. I will have my dog about 10 feet from the other dog. If either of the two begins to show aggression I know that maybe this is not a potential friendship. If they are okay at this distance I proceed. One dog remains stationary, preferably in the 'sit' command, while the other dog is walked by at a distance of 5-6 feet. The moving dog is then asked to sit while the other walks 5-6 away. Everybody still okay? Good, let's keep going. Now I put my dog in the heel position on my left hand side while the other owner puts her dog on her left hand side. From here we walk past each other head on. By walking head on with our dogs on our left hand sides and under control the dogs are still separated by our bodies and still haven't come in contact with each other. At this point, however, each dog has seen the other from a variety of angles and from a variety of potentially threatening and non-threatening positions. If they are still okay you can keep going. Obviously if they have shown aggression at any point you should stop the session.

The next step is the actual introduction. Each owner should approach the other, each dog should be preferably in the heel position. At about 3-4 feet from each other the owners should have their dogs sit by their sides. If everyone is still all right the owners should release the dogs from the sit position and slowly allow the dogs to start sniffing. After a few seconds each owner leads his or her dog away from each other and walks in the opposite direction. Do a U-turn and return to each others proximity. Come back to a halt again 3-4 feet away from each other and repeat the process. Do this several times, each time allowing the dogs to sniff each other for a bit longer period. At this stage it is important to look for tell-tale signs. If the hair on the back of one dog goes straight up lead that dog away and go even slower with the introductions. Watch for other signs such as the lips being lifted, growling, or other very tense behavior.

It is important to keep your dogs on leash. If a fight were to break out both owners could immediately drag each dog apart from each other. If when you introduce two dogs like this and everyone is still okay you can gradually give the dogs more and more freedom and allow them to play even more.
As with all dog training, use common sense. Watch for signs in your dog. Introducing two dogs can be fun, but you must always exercise caution.
Ty Brown is a leading dog training authority with numerous radio and television appearances to his credit. Visit www.dogbehavioronline.com to view free articles and for more puppy resources and check out his dog training business
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Tips For Finding the Perfect Purebred Dog Or Puppy

Tips For Finding the Perfect Purebred Dog Or Puppy

By Debbie Ray
Finding a Dog 101 - Dogs are fantastic companions, and love you no matter what, but remember:
o Dogs DO take time! Remember, just like us, they are social animals who do not like being left alone. You can't just stick them out in the yard or leave them in the house alone all the time and expect everything to be all right. Many types of behavioral problems occur just as a result of this one thing. Do you honestly have ample time every day to spend walking, feeding, cleaning up after, grooming, exercising and playing with your dog? And dogs often live for ten to fifteen years, so enter into this as a seriously long-term commitment.
o Dogs DO cost money. There are food requirements which vary from dog to dog. They will need regular health care as well including: shots, wormings, check ups, etc. Some dog breeds will additionally need regular grooming. Puppies will damage things in your house from time to time - it's a fact. Finding a dog may lead to things being replaced more often. You will have to do more cleaning from time to time - shedding fur, etc.

• o Dogs DO require ample space which can vary from breed to breed. Take the time to research ALL the requirements needed for all breeds you may be interested in. Do you live in an apartment? A duplex/townhouse or condo? A single family home? Do you have a securely fenced yard or access to a securely fenced in area for your dog to play in? If not, can you seriously make some other kind of suitable and realistic arrangements for your dog to get adequate DAILY exercise? Finding a dog requires a lot of forethought and planning.

1) Be Honest. Finding a dog can take some time. First of all, do you really want a dog? Is a purebred dog perfect for you? Or would you be just as happy adopting a dog from the local animal shelter or rescue organization in your area?
2) So you still really want a dog even will all the needs listed above in mind ...
If you can honestly answer all these needs mentioned above with a positive response then you're ready for step 2.
So now, you must now ask yourself:
Finding a Dog 101 - What breed of purebred dog do you want?
Research, research, research! Before selecting a purebred puppy breed you must first carefully consider many things about yourself and your family, such as: your exercise schedule, your own personality, your family and home situation, what you expect of your dog (watchdog, companion for your children, hunting, etc.), whether you live in a house with a fenced yard or in an apartment/duplex/condo, etc. You want to honestly match the dog's needs to yours as closely as possible for the best match possible. Finding a dog takes plenty of forethought and research.
For example, if you're athletically inclined, you don't want a doggie couch potato - a dog that has low exercise needs. If you're a couch potato yourself, you don't want a purebred puppy that needs a lot of exercise.

• o First, DO NOT decide on any dog breed based on looks alone. When finding a dog take your time and do lots of research BEFORE making any new kind of new doggie addition to your family. The eight major purebred dog groups found in the AKC in particular (Sporting, Hound, Working, Terrier, Toy, Non-Sporting, Herding and Miscellaneous) is a great place to start. Feel free to use the dog breed resources on our site as a good place to start as well. We offer many individual dog breed profiles including lots of in-depth information on many kinds of purebred dog...

Finding a Dog 101 - Next: Selecting Your Dog. Do you want an adult or puppy?
Almost everyone wants a puppy. Puppies are lots of fun and can be easy to train and socialize, but they require a lot of time and care. Adult dogs often require less care overall than puppies but may have developed some types of behavioral or socialization problems during their life. If you are more inclined to get an adult dog, one good choice to start with is a rescue dog, possibly from a local shelter or rescue organization. There are many shelters and breed rescue groups available which can be visited on the internet, via the phone or in person depending on your area and finding a dog in one of these places can potentially mean saving it's life. Sometimes these organizations may have puppies for adoption as well.
Finding a Dog 101 - Where is the best place to find a dog or puppy?

• o First, consider adopting a dog from a shelter or purebred dog rescue organization. Way too many dogs are euthanized each year, and you might just find a dog - the perfect companion for you, at the local pound or through a rescue group for your favorite breed. And you saved a life in the process!

o Second, find a "real" breeder. A real breeder of purebred dogs usually belongs to a breed club for their specific dog breed as well as belonging to several other dog related organizations. Additionally, many purebred dog breeders may be involved in showing their own dogs or participating in other dog related activities as agility, lure coursing or herding events. Finding purebred dogs or purebred puppies here means you have a much better chance at learning about the dogs ancestors, breed health problems, littermates, seeing the actual living conditions the puppy was raised in, and have a resource for future questions and a new friend for the life of your new dog.

• Other very important things to look for in a purebred dog breeder - do they: provide references; have a clean kennel with healthy, well-socialized animals; provide a pedigree and registration application form; give you written instructions on feeding, training and care; provide a written contract with conditions of sale and warranty; give you a record of vaccinations and wormings?

Are the breeders: interested in your qualifications to be an owner of one of their precious puppies (your home and family situation, etc); insistent that you take the purebred puppy to a vet for a check-up immediately after purchase; insistent that you continue with vaccinations and wormings on a regular basis; encouraging the relationship between you and the breeder as a continuing one; there for you on an "on-call" basis with ANY future questions or problems that you may have about you new puppy or dog?
Places to avoid when finding a dog:
o Pet shop. These poor puppies are often poorly bred and raised in the most terrible living conditions. You'll never get a chance to see the parents, littermates or the actual original home they were bred in and you will never know what kind of inherited health problems they have until way too late. Finding a dog here means a potential lifetime of health problems as well as the potential to carry on this awful practice of puppy milling by supporting the sellers of their animals.

• o Backyard breeders. Typically these are people who own a dog but are not knowledgeable at all in the details about the breed, inherent health problems and risks, history of their dogs (other than their "papers"), etc. and think it will be "fun" or maybe even "profitable" to have a litter of puppies. Any dog breeders who lets you handle a very young puppy, shows signs of neglect (such as lack of water, and dirty conditions) in their kennel, are willing to sell a puppy under seven weeks of age are not looking out for the puppies best interest. Leave and find a reputable breeder asap! Finding a dog here also means many potential problems and no real support for your new puppy in the future.

We suggest you take your time when searching for your new canine companion. Call breeders, visit their websites if possible, contact parent clubs for references for reputable breeders in your area. The more research you do BEFORE you bring your new companion home, the better off everyone, including the new doggie, will be.

• Debbie Ray, owner of http://www.pedigreedpups.com and http://www.total-german-shepherd.com is a lifelong animal lover and dog enthusiast. Interested in more dog information? Training and health tips? Thinking about getting a purebred dog? Interested in the German Shepherd Dog in particular? Need to promote your dog related website and get additional in bound links? Check out canine-hotline.com (dog only products store) for more dog supplies.

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Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part two)

Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part two)

By Stan Rawlinson
TOP TIPS FOR DOGS (part two)
21. Fussy Eating
I am told by countless owners that their dog will not eat dry food or many other types of food and that they will only eat smoked salmon/steak/or best mince etc etc. This is because we actually teach our dogs to be fussy and picky eaters by free feeding. That is leaving down food all day. The dog then comes to the realisation that it can eat at any time and does not fall into a routine. Free feeding can also have an effect on , control complex behaviour also know as "dominant behaviour" though that term is vastly overused it can give the message to a socially mobile dog that he could be a pack leader as he has access to food at any time.
To overcome this decide on how many times you will feed per day. If he is over 1 year then this will be either once or twice. Feed the food of your choice not the food of his choice "I am a firm believer in a quality all in one dry food" If you prefer the more natural diet that is fine as long as you cook the meat "Never Feed Raw" put this down for ten minutes only, if the dog has eaten it in that time fine, if not pick the food up and put it away.

• When the next meal is due then only put out amount of food you would normally feed, do not double up. It may take a few days for the message to get home, but it will in the end. Remember the dog's dim and distant ancestor is the Wolf. Which is a feast and famine eater; they sometimes go many days or even longer between kills, so your dog will not starve, instinct and survival will take over and the dog will resume eating the food you choose not the food he chooses. Many people think that it must be boring feeding them the same thing every day. But do not realise that supplementing a quality dry food with tinned or pouch food is like putting tomato sauce on Lobster Thermidor.

I am sorry to say I am not a fan of most tinned or pouched meats and in some cases these are detrimental to the dog's behaviour. We also assume that taste is a factor. It isn't, dogs have only 17% of our taste capacity, lets face it if they can eat there own and other animals faeces which many do, then their choice of taste and quality must be questioned.

• 22. Recall Problems

How often do you see dogs coming back to about three foot from their owners then skipping away again, as if it's a game, the owners probably in a hurry get angrier and angrier and start shouting, which of course exacerbates the situation? Giving the dog even more reason not to return, as he is aware that he may get smacked.
All this is caused because the owner did not correctly lead train and stimulate the dog in the park in the first place. He/She actually taught the dog not to come back, by only putting the dog back on the lead at the end of the walk. It doesn't take long for the dog to click on that recall and lead mean end of fun and walk.
May I suggest the owners were probably on their mobile phone at the same time? Go to any park and see the dozens of people on mobiles walking their dogs, the poor dogs have to stimulate themselves somehow, and start running off to other dogs and people for the attention that they crave.

• Give your dog's quality time and quality training. During the walk call your dog back to you at least three or four times. Place it on a lead and reward with a brief game or a real tasty titbit, and then let it off again. Your dog will then learn that coming back to you is good news and being placed on the lead does not mean the end of the walk and end of play!

Play hide and seek behind trees etc, especially important before the 16 week puppy mark, and as early as is humanly possible. . It doesn't think your hiding it thinks you are getting lost, and will tend to keep a beady eye on you, and by hiding especially at a young age sets up the recall and the need to keep you in sight for life. You can now get their injections so the dog can be fully covered and socialised at 10 weeks rather than 12 and I would strongly recommend this for every new puppy owner The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. So switch off the mobiles and play games, stimulate your dog and he will have no need to wander off and not want to return.

• 23. Kennel Cough

On top of the Antibiotics from the Vet, Benylin Dry Cough mixture, twice a day will help to relieve the irritation. Also avoid any pressure from a collar, as this will exacerbate the condition. If you must go anywhere with your dog on a lead, use a body harness. Avoid areas where there are other dogs and if visiting your vet, make it the last appointment. Leave your dog in the car and go and tell the vet staff you are outside waiting to go in, or ask to be placed in an isolation room. This will help to reduce the spread of this highly contagious disease.

• 24. Timidity and Fears

How many times have you seen a dog shaking or cowering and the owner sympathising and reassuring it with petting and nurturing? This may appear to be perfectly logical behaviour, but is actually giving the dog all the wrong signals and rewarding it for being timid and nervous and confirming it has a reason to be fearful, therefore the very thing you are trying to cure is reinforced by your actions. The shy and timid dog should be exposed to as many different situations as possible. Take it along with you to the shops, the bar or the pub, and everywhere you can introduce it to new sights sounds and smells.

• Don't push it into fearful situations but gently desensitise it to the things it fears praise for calmness never for fear Consistent treatment in this manner will begin to deliver the message to the dog that there is nothing to fear. Do NOT cuddle the dog, or hug it and tell it there is nothing to fear. Dogs do not understand most of the words we say -- they understand our actions. If the dog gets a hug, it assumes it has done the correct thing and will continue to be fearful.

25. Tag and Identification
It may surprise everyone to know that the maximum fine for not displaying a dog identification tag in the UK is £5000. (Where did they get that figure from?) Irrespective of whether your pet is already micro chipped. The law which is the Control of Dog Order 1992 states that "Every dog while in a highway or in a place of public resort, shall wear a collar with the name and address of the owner inscribed on the collar or on a plate or badge attached thereto". I would also recommend you put your mobile number on the disc in case you are away on holiday with the dog; the home number would be useless if your dog then goes missing. You could also add the Vets number in case you cannot be contacted and the vet can keep the dog until you can pick it up.

• 26. Shy Timid or Frightened Dogs

I am a firm believer that socialisation is so vitally important; it almost outweighs any other consideration including the risk of contracting disease. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations.
By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive as an adult. "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related". Owners should strike a commonsense balance: puppies, especially from birth through to 14 weeks must be exposed to a variety of people and experiences. There are many activities and places to take dogs; without endangering their lives, it is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these as possible.

• This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

27. Herbal and Natural Treatments
I am a strong advocate of herbal medicines for dogs especially in areas of Timidity, Fear and Anxiety. The more common and easily obtainable are Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy, (chemist or health food shop, internet) D.A.P Diffuser (internet or vets) and Skullcap and Valerian (health stores chemists internet. These can be especially helpful in situations such as separation anxiety excessive barking and firework and thunder phobias.

• 28. The Lead

Your lead is the most vital piece of training equipment you can own, it has multiple uses, it is also an aerial to your dog. Tighten it at the wrong time and you can send messages that could spark aggression, fear, or anxiety, use it to drag your dog around and it could damage his neck and spine, especially if it connected to a choke chain which I abhor. Used correctly it can be a godsend almost the only training aid you will ever need.

• All training including sit, stay, down, recall, sit stay, wait etc should initially be trained on a lead. Unfortunately most of the leads I see are far too short to be effective and are of a material that hurts and can burn and damage your hands.

The lead should be at least 5 foot long irrespective of the size of the dog, this will help all training and lead work in the future. It should be made of something like Cushion Web which is extremely strong yet very soft, (sounds a bit like a advert for toilet paper) NOT Nylon which is harsh as can burn and damage your hands.
The problem is that most lead manufacturers haven't a clue about dogs and what constitutes a good lead, they just produce what makes the most profit. Good quality leather leads are OK though I find them a bit hard on the hands at first. Shop around till you find what you want, don't be fobbed off with what the industry or pet shop wants you to buy. I have my own specialised Cushion Web leads made for me; you can now buy them direct from my site, it is worth shopping around until you get exactly what you want.

• 29. Counter Surfing

This is where dogs are constantly picking things up either from the floor tables or kitchen worktops, at best it can be frustrating and annoying, at worst it can be fatal if they eat something that is dangerous. The quickest way and most permanent resolution to this problem is to go to your local joke shop and buy a spring loaded cap banger. This is a little metal device that when you put a cap in it and set it by putting a suitable object on top, then anyone or in this case anything picking up the food/object will set off the banger takes about three/four bangs and the dog normally decides to call it a day. The beauty of this device is most dogs are crafty and only steal when you are not in the room therefore it is the perfect solution.

• 30. Dogs Ages in Human Terms

If I were to stop 100 people in the street and ask them how do you calculate a dogs age human in human terms 90% would say one dog year to every seven human years the others 9% would probably say they don't know and 15 may know the correct calculation.
This is one of many doggy old wives tales that are totally and utterly wrong. As a general rule of thumb it should be fifteen for the 1st year ten for the 2nd and then five for every year thereafter. This is only an approximation there is a chart that works on size and breed that gives it more accurately than this. If you calculated every seven years and the dog is 16 years old then the dog in human terms would be 112 using my method the dog is a more realistic 95.

• I also think we are all aware that a one-year-old dog does not act like a seven-year-old child; it is more like the rebellious teenager round the back of the bike shed having a quick fag. In addition, they are far more aware of the opposite sex than a seven year old would ever be.

31. Firework Aversion
For many dog owners the run up to November 5th is a nightmare. To help alleviate the problem purchase a sounds disc from places like Sounds Scary on the web or pet shops. Do this at least a six weeks before the main firework days for instant November the 5th in the UK or the 4th of July in the States. A DAP Diffuser also can help which is a chemical copy of the pheromone the nursing mother gives out to calm her litter along with herbal calmers such as Dr Bach's Rescue remedy. Using the pheromones and the herbal remedies and a calm base, start playing the disc very softly at first the build up of the volume should be over weeks not hours. Never try to rush this and if the dog shows concern go back a few steps. Never comfort or cuddle an anxious dog (see tip 24)
If initially the dog has just been frightened for the first time by fireworks, you should act very blasé and immediately go outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees, or even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear, this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential future problem immediately.

• How this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.

32. Dry and Crusty Nose
adding a teaspoon of flax seed oil to the dog's food daily often helps.. Dry noses and other dry skin complaints respond well to a multivitamin supplement (especially if they include vitamin B complex).
33. Fleas
If you want a natural method of flea control give the dog a clove of garlic in his food each day. You can also purchase granulated garlic from a horse tack shop at a very reasonable price. Fleas hate the taste, which come out in the dog's skin and will soon go looking for a more tasty meal.

• 34. Ear Mites

if your pet has contracted ear mites, then a simple remedy is to use corn oil to suffocate them place two or three drops of corn oil into its ears (you can use an eye dropper), massage the ear gently then clean our with a cotton ball. Repeat for 3 days. Regular ear bathing with oil is recommended by vets, to avoid a build-up of wax and irritants.
35. Urinary Tract Infections
Mix 30-40ml of cranberry juice into your pet's food. This will boost the acidity of its urine, reduce bacteria and help relieve the discomfort. To ease the pain in fact any pain you can add half a dissolved aspirin or children's liquid analgesic to your pet's food.
This is part two of the Greatest Dog Tips see Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one) for the first 20 tips.
Please rate these tips at the bottom of the page and add your comments thank you
Stan Rawlinson
www.doglistener.co.uk
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
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Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one)

Greatest Dog Tips Ever (part one)

By Stan Rawlinson
TOP TIPS FOR YOUR PET(part one)

• 1. Is Your Dog Regularly Getting the Runs?

Add bio yoghurt to their feed. Quite often this can be a bacterial imbalance. Especially if it is happening on a regular basis. The bio yoghurt normally sorts this sort of problem out fairly quickly.

• 2. Is Your Dog's Urine Burning the Lawn?

Yellow spots on the lawn are caused because your dog's digestive system is too rich in nitrogen therefore the high levels of nitrogen in the urine causes the lawn spots. Go outside and really look at those burn marks. Notice how the outside edge of the mark actually has really nice, green grass? That is because the nitrogen that burned the grass is too strong but the outer edges of the 'circle' of urine ended up with just enough nitrogen to help instead of hurt.

• There are a few things you can do. If you are observant you can water over the spot where the dog has urinated this will dilute the nitrogen and will be beneficial to the lawn. set aside an area the dog can use as a bathroom where you don't care what happens. Fill it with shingle or just leave the grass there to get burned. Teach the dog to go in that one spot. This will take time and patience.

Alternatively a dose of one teaspoon to one tablespoon of apple cider vinegar (depending on the size of the dog) per day can correct the pH imbalance and could solve the problem. The apple cider vinegar can be added to the dog's water or put directly on his food. The natural type from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the supermarketTwo tablespoons of tomato juice on the dog's food twice a day will have the same effect.

• 3. Insect Stings to Dogs or Cats

Slice a raw onion and apply to the sting as soon as possible.If the sting is inside the mouth - Keep "Antihistamine" capsules in your first aid kit. A rapid administration soon after the sting can prevent serious complications. You can also get antihistamine in liquid form which makes it easier to dispense. To administer liquids pull out the jowl near the back teeth it makes a sort of little cup, then just pour the measured liquid in, close mouth, tip head back and massage throat. Some dogs will actually swallow the insect live, which may continue stinging the dog internally and cause anaphylactic shock. In rare cases, death can result. This is caused from internal swelling of the trachea which cuts off the oxygen supply to the lungs. Quick administration of "Antihistamine" can reduce and even prevent serious complications.
SPECIAL NOTE - Dosage will vary depending on the size of the animal. Check with your vet for recommended dosage. Usually they will refer to the animal's weight as a guideline.

• 4. Sharp Object and Glass eating

What do you do if your dog eats glass or other sharp objects like staples or small nails etc? Dogs even eat ornaments, Xmas decorations, light bulbs and lots of other things that are sharp and therefore dangerous. Here's what to do.

• Go to the chemist and buy some cotton balls make sure it is cotton balls and not the cosmetic puff things they are made of manmade fibres. Buy a carton of double cream and keep it in the freezer if in the eventuality of your dog eating something sharp. Defrost the cream and pour some in a bowl. Dip cotton balls into the cream and feed them to your dog.

Dogs less than 10 lbs should eat 2 balls which you have first torn into smaller pieces. Dogs 10-50 lbs should eat 3-5 balls and larger dogs should eat 5-7.
You may feed larger dogs an entire cotton ball at once. Dogs seem to really like these strange treats and eat them readily. As the cotton works its way through the digestive tract it will find all the glass and small sharp objects and wrap itself around them. Even the teeniest shards of glass will be caught and wrapped in the cotton fibres and the cotton will protect the intestines from damage. Your dog's stools will be a bit strange for a few days. You must be careful to check for fresh blood or a tarry appearance to the stool. If either of the latter symptoms appear you should rush your dog to the vet for a check-up, but in most cases, the dogs should be fine

• 5. Bonding

If you want to quickly bond with a new pup or rescue dog. Masticate a piece of white bread till it is a gooey then feed this as a titbit to the pup/dog for the first 7 days. You only need to do this once a day; it mimics the regurgitation process when pups and cubs are being weaned in the wild, this really makes all the difference and helps them bond more quickly and therefore settle in much sooner.

• 6. Constipation

If your dog doesn't move his bowels for a day or two, or if he seems to have difficulty doing so, he may be constipated. Give him a teaspoonful of milk of magnesia first thing in the morning, before his breakfast if you feed him twice a day. If he is often constipated, add more vegetables to his diet and also mix a teaspoonful of mineral oil in his dinner. He won't taste it with the food. Do this until he is regular again. Also be sure that he gets plenty of exercise. Lack of running, walking, and jumping can make a dog constipated.

• 7. Car Sickness

Often Ginger helps with this problem either Ginger Biscuits or even better natural ginger fed before the journey. The biscuits can be fed as the dog gets in the car, which has an added incentive of the dog feeling that it being praised for just getting in the vehicle. Cocculus 6C a homeopathic remedy for travel sickness can also be help especially for a dog that has excessive drooling or has been sick. Give one dose then repeat every 30 minutes for a maximum of 4 doses. Sea Legs can also be helpful the human travel sickness but check with your Vet for how much to administer, though I would imagine if you bought a child's dose it would be fine

• 8. Grooming

Once a week put a really good shake of Olive Oil "the one you use for salads" into the dogs food, it gives the coat a brilliant shiny healthy look. In conjunction with the oil use a rubber horse curry comb/ brush; you can purchase it cheaply from any tack shop, strips all the dead hair off and shines up the coat better than any other brush on the market. They also do a plastic one that gets all the seeds and bits of debris out. I use both to great affect.

• 9. Grooming 2

Irrespective of the dogs coat long or short groom daily. Even if it's only for a couple of minutes and make sure you groom over the withers. This helps in bonding and social status. In the wild the Alpha Male and Female will call over the other wolves or wild dogs individually and groom them in their pecking order. Grooming is an important social gesture. That is why some dominant dogs object to being groomed, they don't believe you have right or the position to initiate this action.

• 10. Tears Stains and Bacterial Infections

Wet areas on the face are a breeding ground for bacteria and yeast. Bacterial infections commonly occur in the tear ducts. "Ptirsporum", red yeast bacteria, is at the root of most yeast infections. Tear stains also often occur at the same time as a gum infection or ear infection. Staining can also occur on a dog's paws from licking and around his mouth from infected saliva.
Apple cider vinegar (in its natural form from a health food store, not the pasteurized version from the Supermarket) I get mine from horse tack shops. It is a natural antibiotic, antiseptic, and deodorant; It helps digestion and to remove tooth tartar; prevents tooth decay and hair loss (even mange), it also prevents and heals gum disease and skin problems; and will discourage fleas.
Putting a teaspoon of apple cider vinegar per quart of water in your dog's water bowl or on food can clear up most active yeast infections and prevent future infections. Apple cider vinegar tablets can be used if your dog refuses to drink the treated water or eat the food.

• 11. Halitosis/Dog Breath

Halitosis, or unpleasant breath, can be caused by a stomach problem, bad teeth or tonsils, or something that is stuck in the dog's mouth or throat. Look your dog's teeth to see if any are decayed. If not, then give him 3/4 teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda in his food twice a day for a few days. If his breath is still offensive, then take him to a vet to see if he needs his teeth cleaned or his tonsils treated.

• 12. Cuts

If your dog cuts himself slightly, put some boric acid solution or some peroxide on the cut and then leave it alone. You can also buy veterinarian wound powder, the best place to buy this is a horse tack shop it's much cheaper, Clean the cut or abrasion making sure no dirt or debris is left in the wound and puff the powder onto the area and leave it normally heals up fairly quickly. If the cut is deep, or if it doesn't stop bleeding, pack gauze or clean rags around it and take him to a vet. If the cut is on his leg or foot and bleeds a lot, tie a piece of cloth tightly around his leg, between the cut and his body, release the pressure every ten minutes, and take him to a vet at once.

• 13. Electric Shocks

Once in a while, a silly puppy will chew through an electric cord leading to a lamp or a radio or a toaster. Surprisingly the shock he gets is normally not serious (though in certain circumstances has proved fatal); however it can sometimes be strong enough to knock him out. If this happens, put a little household ammonia on a wad of cotton and hold this under his nose. Don't touch the nose with it, as the ammonia will burn his skin. The sharp odour will bring him round. When he does comes to, give him some cool, strong, black coffee to drink. If his mouth seems burned by the shock, wet a cloth in strong, cool tea and wash the burned place with this. Take him to the vet if he seems burned or injured in any way.

• 14. What if your dog swallows a dangerous object

It's a rare puppy that doesn't swallow at least one strange object which his stomach can't possibly digest. But a dog's stomach is so constructed that it can usually take care of most of the odd things that find their way into it. If you should see your dog swallow something you know is bad for him . . . a piece of rubber toy, a large nail, a splinter of bone or sharp metallic object . . . here's what to do right away.
Give him a large piece of soft bread to eat. Then toss about two teaspoonfuls of salt on the back of his tongue, close his mouth with your hand and keep it closed until he swallows the salt. Now put him on a newspaper or some other place where he can vomit without doing any damage. In a short time, the salt will cause him to throw up the bread and the strange object. If this doesn't come up the first time give him another dose of salt after about 5 minutes. Once the object is vomited, He should be fine. But if he begins to have diarrhoea, or if his stomach swells up and appears tender when you touch it, give him a tablespoonful of mineral oil. If he still seems to be in pain after a few hours, or if there is any blood in his urine or bowel movement, take him straight to a vet.

• 15. Eyes

If you want to clean out the "sleep bugs," you can dip a wad of cotton into a mixture of warm water and boric-acid solution 50/50. Squeeze a few drops of this in each eye. You can also use plain warm milk for this purpose. If your pet has got some mild conjunctivitis try warm used tea bags, if the infection is more than mild then purchase some Golden Eye from the chemist (cream not drops) and treat for three days this clears up most infections, however if he still has problems a visit to the Vet is in order. In case of a real injury to the eyes from a dogfight, or something poked into them, put a pad of gauze soaked in boric-acid solution 50/50 ie warm water and boric acid over the eye that's hurt. Then wrap a towel loosely around the dog's head and take him at once to a vet.

• 16. Commands

Avoid giving your dog commands that you know you cannot enforce. Every time you give a command that is neither complied with nor enforced your dog learns that commands are optional.
One command should equal one response, so give your dog only one command (twice max!), then gently enforce it. Repeating commands tunes your dog out (as does nagging) and teaches your dog that the first several commands are a "bluff." For instance, telling your dog to "Sit, sit, sit, sit!", is neither an efficient nor effective way to issue commands. Simply give your dog a single "Sit" command and gently place or lure your dog into the sit position, then praise/reward.

• 17. The Dog's Name

Whenever possible, use your dog's name positively, rather than using it in conjunction with a reprimand, warnings or punishment. Your dog should trust that when it hears its name or is called to you, good things happen. His name should always be positive and responded to with enthusiasm, never hesitancy or fear.
One of best ways to make sure his name is viewed as a positive is to sit the dog between you and your partner or a friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically, cheese, puffed jerky or dried liver is ideal. Get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned.
Some people including myself create a bad dog name so that the dog never hears its real name in any negative situation.

• 18. Pee Poles

These are very new in the pet shops and are made of hard plastic and look almost like a 1 foot high giant tack. The tack is impregnated with a Pheromone that causes the dogs and bitches to urinate on them. You hammer them in the area you want the dog to urinate and hey presto. Believe it or not it appears to work. These scientists are doing very well with their pheromones, what with the DAP diffuser and now this.

• 19. Puppy Teething

Most of the teething and chewing as apart from mouthing and nipping starts at about 4.5 months old. This is the time that the little piranha teeth, laughingly called puppy teeth start dropping out, as the new adult teeth start pushing through. It takes anything up to 8 months for these new teeth to set in the jaw, whilst this is happening the pup has a need to chew. To help soothe this and save your fixtures, fittings and furniture. Get the pup a plastic flower pot. Not the thin brittle ones but a fairly thick substantial one, this will help his gums and sooth the itching. Another great help is get a knotted rope you buy as a tug soak it in water and put it in the freezer. The ice that forms really helps hot and itchy gums. Also freeze carrots and whilst frozen give to teething pups a great and nutritious soother.

• 20. Games of Tug

I don't like games of tug at any time, except with a particularly timid or frightened dog then I will play and let the dog win to build up some confidence. However I never ever play tug with a puppy whilst it has its puppy/piranha teeth. It actually has little or no jaw muscles at this time therefore you can dislocate the jaw or even misalign the teeth by playing roughhouse tug games. You may also be setting the scene for aggressive confrontations later in the puppy's growth cycle by playing this type of game. It would be better playing games of find, hide little bits of treats in the house and garden and encourage the dog to search them out, or ball games these all help dispel some of the pup's energies and to stimulate the mind, rather than stimulate the aggression predatory side of the pup.

• See Greatest Dog Tips (part two) for the next fifteen tips

Stan Rawlinson
Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 25 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He now has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, and Middlesex.
Stan is recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centres, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly and K9 Magazine and Shooting Times. He is also the founder member of PAACT The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers.
www.doglistener.co.uk
enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
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Dog Food Aggression or Canine Possession Aggression

Dog Food Aggression or Canine Possession Aggression
By Chris S
Dog food aggression is one of those dog behavior problems that is difficult for us humans to fully understand. It just doesn't seem to make sense that your dog would consider you a threat to his/her food resource. I mean you gave him the food in the first place, and if you feed your dog's the same kinds of foods that I do, it's not all that appealing anyway!
But, what is your dog thinking?

• If your dog glares at you, snarls, growls and positions himself between you and the food he is actually saying to you "this is mine, go away, find your own". He is basically telling you that he considers himself as the leader or alpha dog in your household. Dog food aggression (sometimes called canine possession aggression) is a dominance issue, it is serious and needs to be addressed immediately, it won't just go away.

We've all made the mistake of laughing and even encouraging our feisty little dogs when they first display the "cute" signs of dog food aggression. Don't fall into this trap! Food or toy aggression in dogs should never be tolerated as you never know when it can escalate into something more dangerous for you or a family member.

• Why Does Your Dog Display Dog Food Aggression?

Canine possession aggression can be triggered by any number of factors but in most cases it can be attributed to one of these common causes:
Your dog is desperate for this food, in his mind he doesn't know if or when he will get more food. Therefore he protects or guards his food, just like he would have done in a pack situation in the wild.
Your dog may begin to see you as someone who is always taking good stuff away. He comes to view you more as a threat than a provider (you've got to turn this thinking around).
Dog food aggression can be part of the general confusion regarding who the leader is in your owner - dog relationship. Often it is not an isolated incident, it's something you need to rectify.
It's possible that your dog doesn't even understand that his dog food aggression is unacceptable behavior. In such cases there is an obvious communication breakdown between human and dog.

General Rules For Correcting Food Aggression In Dogs

If your dog is directing his aggression towards other dogs the best solution is to simply separate them at meal times. Feed them in different rooms or in their crates.
Involve all of your family members in this dog food aggression training.
Take control of feeding time. You control the time and place of dinner time - own the food!
Make your dog earn any food. Just simple tasks like sit or a down stay is fine.
Make it clear to your young puppies that it's good to have people around when they are eating. If you do this from day one you will almost certainly prevent dog food aggression problems.
If you encounter dog food aggression it is a good idea to feed your dog after you and your family eat. This again is a throwback to your dogs pack mentality where the alpha dog or leader of the pack (which is you) eats first - your dog will understand this technique.

• Don't let your dog "win" the food through his growling, this would reward the very behavior you are trying to eradicate. Don't bully or intimidate your dog though, it's much better to make him actually like having you around at meal time (follow the tips below to achieve this).

Never respond to canine possession aggression with aggression of your own. In essence what this does is to lock you and your dog into a battle of wills. Your dogs next move will most likely be to step up his level of aggression to counter your action.

Dog Food Aggression Training Techniques
Firstly, be careful. If you believe your dog poses any real physical threat to you or family members I'd advise getting professional help. Speak to a professional dog trainer or animal behaviorist.
Below is a list of training techniques which could help your dog overcome his dog food aggression. Remember all of these techniques are designed to work towards reconditioning your dog to enjoy having you around anytime. Mix it up, show your dog who is boss.

Hand feed your dogs, even stick your hands into your dogs bowl while he is eating.
Stroke and pet your dog while he is eating and at the same time talk to him in a calming tone. All you are doing at this point is showing your dog that it is a good thing for you to be around.
Stand at a distance your dog is comfortable with, then gradually reduce this distance over time. You can flick a few treats in (or near) the bowl as you slowly reduce the distance.
Put your dogs bowl down with nothing in it, your dog will look back at you as though you are crazy. He'll then literally beg you to come over and fill his bowl.
Feed your dog as normal but hold back a few pieces of his meal. When he is finished licking the bowl, he'll look back up at you, then you can come over and give him the remaining food.
Drop a few of your dogs very favorite treats into his bowl each time you walk past it. After a while of this your dog will welcome the sight of you approaching the bowl.
When your dog is eating, call him over to you, when he gets to you reward him, make it worth his while then let him back to the food bowl.

• While you are preparing your dogs meal put him in a down-stay or sit position, only release him from your command once you have put his bowl down. By doing this you are controlling meal time and establishing (or re-establishing) your role as your dogs leader.

Work with another family member on this technique. Put your dog in his collar and leash and have him sit with your helper while you prepare the food. When you are ready release your dog and allow him his food. Again you are controlling the situation.
Try the "Trade Up Method". What you do is take away the food or toy your dog is guarding, and replace it with something better. You can use an obedience command such as "give" or "leave it" to encourage your dog to release the precious resource he is guarding. You then take this resource (the food or toy) and give the trade up item to your dog. Once your dog has finished with the new item, you can then give back the resource you took away. This technique proves to your dog that he will receive something great for giving something up, it will recondition his thinking.
Every time you are with your dog have him in a pinch or prong collar with a leash attached. Whenever he displays any signs of dog food aggression you immediately administer a correction to your dog by snapping on the leash. What this does to your dog is build a negative association to the act of his food guarding antics.

Chris Smith is a dedicated dog owner and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
Discover how to train your dog the right way yourself at home - try these latest cutting edge dog training techniques.
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Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems

Dog Training - 8 Ways to Cut Down on Behavior Problems
By Marilyn Burnham
You've performed three of the most important tasks for a dog owner: decided if you were right for a dog, determined what dog was the best for you and taught your best friend some manners. That should be about it, right? Wrong!

• You have an ongoing relationship with your pet, just like you do your children or your spouse. It's important to maintain the relationship if you want it to be fruitful. If you don't, all of that training you've done so far will be for naught.

Sometimes, though, like all relationships, the one with your dog can be rocky. Even well-trained owners have dogs with behavior problems when things change. Dog have been known to act out when their owners being working more hours, go back to school, have a baby or get married. Dogs aren't themselves when they are ill or in pain. Some dogs are just never quite right because of problems inherited from poor breeding.
Here are nine things you can do to make sure your well-behaved dog stays that way.

• 1. Don't forget that you are leader of the pack. Remind yourself that your dog is genetically programmed to be part of a group and to obey the leader of his pack. If you don't provide him consistent strong, yet fair, leadership, he will try to become the leader. If he becomes the leader by default, behavior problems will increase exponentially. Here are some tips to make sure he remembers you are his leader:

- Don't let him pull on his leash.
- Don't put the leash on your dog until he sits quietly.
- Don't let him get away with bad behavior.
- Always eat before he does.
- Don't chase or play rough games like tug-of-war with your dog.
- Don't allow him to bite anyone.
- Always go through doorways before him.
- Try to always be calm, fair and confident when dealing with your dog.
- Don't give him anything - attention, food, play - without him doing something for you first, like sitting on command.
- Don't allow your dog on furniture without your permission.
- Protect your dog from other animals or people who try to harm him.
When you are a strong leader, your dog will respect you. With this respect comes an innate desire to please. He will love you and want to obey your every command!

2. Train with your dog every day. Just like with humans, any behavior you train your dog to do will be forgotten if he doesn't practice it. Work with your dog at least 15 minutes a day on an aspect of his behavior. This is important, also, to remind your canine that you are the leader of his pack. Try to teach your dog something new every month or two. This will keep him challenged and give you both a sense of accomplishment. Most dogs were bred to do some kind of work, and if you don't give your dog purpose, he'll become bored and develop behavioral problems.


3. Make sure to give your dog treats and praise. Continue the technique you've used to train your dog. People tend to get complacent, and before you know it, Spot is hogging your bed and dragging you down the street by the leash. To make things worse, he won't listen to your commands any more. To prevent this, make your dog perform an act of obedience to earn praise, petting or a treat.
4. Never strike or yell at your dog. Hitting or kicking your dog will have about the same effect that it would on a spouse or a child - it ruins the relationship and breaks down all the trust your pet had for you. Some owners use physical abuse to train their dogs to fight for money. Others believe, erroneously, that abuse will make them become better watch or attack dogs. Statistics show that thousands of dogs are killed or injured by people every year. No matter how frustrated you get with him, never, ever strike your pet.
Dogs don't respond well to yelling. All it does is get your dog more stressed, which will more than likely make his behavior problems worse. Everyone loses their patience from time to time, but remember that your dog only responds to fair leadership.

5. Get your dog proper medical care. Your dog needs a checkup at the veterinarian annually to make sure he's in top form physically and to receive yearly shots to prevent rabies and other diseases. It's important to go to the same vet every year so he or she can monitor your pet and notice any evidence of problems. All dogs need a teeth cleaning from time to time, too, to keep them healthy. If your dog is injured or sick, he needs to get proper medical attention. Your veterinarian can also give you advice on behavior as well as diet, breeding, training, and puppy selection


6. Attend obedience training. As an absolute necessity for getting a good to a positive relationship with your dog, be sure to take him to a six-to-eight-week-long obedience class, before his first birthday if he's a puppy, as soon as possible if he's an adult dog. A good trainer will teach you the basics and what a good dog/owner relationship is.
If you have an adult dog, don't worry. That old saying, "You can't teach an old dog new tricks" is not true! A dog of any age can learn good behavior. Both you and your dog will benefit. He will learn some good behavior and to respect you, the leader of the pack. You'll learn the subtleties of your dog's behavior and how to act in a fair, yet dominant, manner. Obedience training is great way to teach an "only dog" how to properly socialize with other dogs and people. Whether you are alone with your dogs or in a group of people and animals, your dog will learn how to behave.
Here are some tips to help you determine what obedience class is the right one for you and your pet:
- Ask your friends, family members, vet or groomer for
recommendations.

- Be sure the trainer uses positive reinforcement and no methods that hurt or frighten the dogs.
- Choose a trainer that focuses primarily on group classes. Although it may seem like one-on-one training might be best, group classes give both you and your dog to observe other people and their pets. Your dog will also focus on your commands, not just those of the trainer. Some owners do both individual and group classes.
- Make sure there are separate classes for puppies and adult dogs. Dogs between eight and 16 weeks should be in puppy classes. You may also feel more comfortable with a trainer who offers beginning, intermediate and advanced obedience classes.
- Ask the trainer you are considering if you can watch a class. While you watch, note some of these details: Notice if the class is small enough that everyone can get some individualized attention. Watch to see if both and dogs and owners are having fun. See if the trainer provides lesson handouts. In a good class, you'll hear plenty of praise and commands in upbeat, yet firm, tones. Does the trainer give the owners other information about health, grooming or specific breeds? You want to make sure your trainer is knowledgeable about the whole dog, not just obedience training techniques.

- Ask your trainer if he or she knows several different techniques to work with dogs. This can come in handy if your dog doesn't always respond to the tried-and-true methods.
- Make certain that the trainer requires that dogs be vaccinated and certified healthy by their vet before enrolling in classes.
- Be sure to get a list of equipment you'll need to bring with you to your first class.
Once you find the right trainer and obedience class, make sure both you and your dog are prepared. Be sure to bring all the required equipment. Don't feed your dog before class - since treats are part of the reinforcement of good behavior, you want him to be willing to eat the treats, which he might not want if he has a full belly. Don't forget to do your homework! Practice between classes is essential to reinforce your dog's behavior.


7. Lean all you can about your dog, his breed, and canine care. You can never know too much when it comes to your dog. Learn all you can from books, television and magazines. Be sure just to take the time to browse at the pet supply store or your favorite online pet supplies merchant to see what kind of new products are on the market. A new toy from time to time is a new adventure for both you and your pet.
8. Keep your dog's home safe and stimulating. Giving your dog a fun, secure place to live will help to prevent bad behavior and may even prolong his life. Always have a number of fun toys available, including balls, chews and squeaky toys. Be sure to play with your dog daily to give him the necessary exercise he needs, to help you bond with your pet and to just have fun!
If no one is home during the day, leave a talk radio station on. Keep your pet out of areas of your home where he might eat something toxic or injure himself. Keep your fence well maintained.
If your dog starts to have behavior problems, don't despair! There's nothing to say that you can't start training him to change his behavior! With a little patience and perseverance, you will be able to eliminate most bad behavior. In the most extreme cases, you may not be able to stop the behavior, but with training your dog will show improvement.

Some problems won't be entirely eliminated, especially if you chose a dog that doesn't have the temperament for your lifestyle. But even some of these dogs can change if you have a good dog/dog owner relationship. Now we'll look at some of the most common behavior problems and how to re-train your dog to behave appropriately.
Marilyn Burnham
Author: 'Dog Owners Boot Camp'
The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Don't Want You To Know!
For More Information On Dog Training
Marilyn Burnham was the owner operator of 4 successful dog grooming stores in British Columbia, Canada for more than a decade. To spend more time with her children Marilyn made the decision to sell her business in the mid 90's. Get a copy of her book: Dog Owners Boot Camp The How To Guide, Dog Training Secrets Professional Dog Trainers Dont Want You To Know!
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Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer - Detailed Book Review

Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer - Detailed Book Review
By Chris S
Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer was put together by leading professional dog trainer Adam Katz. He states that this book is his attempt to bring together all of the latest tricks, tips and crafts of the dog training profession, and make them accessible to the ordinary dog owner. In doing this I believe he has created the best do-it-yourself dog training system available today.

• Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer is the most complete dog ownership and obedience training resource I have come across. This book and the bonuses that come with it have changed the way I think about dog training - and no doubt for the better. If you follow Adam's cutting edge techniques, like I have, you'll come away with so much more than just a "well trained dog".

What You Get In The Package
Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer Book
This is the main book in the package, when downloaded it's 151 pages chock full of the
best dog ownership and obedience training information I have seen in any one book. The
book isn't slick or glossy with lots of pretty pictures, it's just a great resource of
the latest cutting edge and useable dog training techniques. There is so much to take in and
understand that you will probably need to read through the book at least a couple of times (I still find new things each time I flick through my copy).

• The book covers in precise detail every imaginable aspect of dog ownership and is presented

in a no-nonsense, take it or leave it style. Adam gets away with writing in this syle because he has an absolute confidence in his training methods which is based on years of experience and proven real-world results.
I can't go into too much detail and give away Adam's secrets, but I'll just highlight some of
the many topics which are covered. These are just some of the principles I found to be crucial when working with my dogs:

How to achieve a proper relationship with your puppy or older dog, based on trust and respect.
The overriding principle of this package it to praise or reward your dog when he does something you like, and correct his behavior when he does something you don't like (sounds simple but you need to know the right way to do this).
Shows you how to work with the natural drives and instincts of your dog (this is crucial to understand and follow).
Explains the 3 keys to successful dog training and behavior modification - the first key is "timing".
Details the three phases of dog training or the dog learning process.
Shows you how to communicate with your dog so that your dog understands your commands and those same commands have meaning.
Explains the top four way to effectively communicate with your dogs. You achieve this through replicating how dogs communicate with each other.
Explains why you the dogs owner are the best person in the world to train your dog.

Dog problems are universal - the good news is so are the answers to these problems.
If you read, understand and then apply the above principles you are pretty much set. All of
your dog training needs can be addressed by adapting these methods to any situation, whether
you are trying to correct a behavioral problem or teach a new trick.
Some of the specific Lessons and Topics discussed within the book - again I can't go into too much detail here but let me assure you Adam leaves his readers in no doubt about what to do and what not to do in all of these scenarios:

How to choose the right puppy or older dog for you and your family.
What your puppy needs at each crucial stage while growing up.
Tells you how professional trainers raise their own pups.
How to take any dog for a walk on a loose leash.
How to perform and hold a perfect down-stay.
How to prevent or fix canine aggression.
Stop your dogs excessive barking.
Five secrets to quickly housebreak (potty train) your puppy.
The truth about crate training.
Stop your dog jumping forever.
The problem with clicker training.
Which collar is right for your dog.
Stop your dog digging.
Stop your puppy biting now.
How to stop your dog running away from you.
How to fix separation anxiety.
How to teach your dog hand signals.
Socializing your dogs.
Training with and electronic collar.
How to give a motivational correction.

The above list of common dog problems barely scratches the surface of what's included in this book. You'll find the book addresses all area's of dog ownership including building a strong relationship with your dog, obedience training and correcting any behavioral problems.
What Adam is really doing in this book is training us the reader, so we can then go and bond with and train our dogs - the right way.
Bonus 1 - Eight Secrets To Becoming The "Alpha Dog"
This proved to be the most beneficial part of the package for me and my dogs. Once I learned and applied the techniques covered in this bonus book everything else I did with my dogs seemed to become easier. Whether I was teaching them a new trick or correcting a behavioral problem, the process seemed to be easier and quicker after we established that I was the Alpha Dog. As Adam outlines in the book (you can also listen to it as an audio file) when you become the Alpha Dog your dogs do these four things:

Quickly respond to you.
Respect you in any situation.
Bond with you in the proper way.
Really want to please you.

This occurs because dogs naturally love to have a leader (you the Alpha Dog). They are
happiest when they've got a good strong leader, who they know will take care of them and that
they trust.
Bonus 2 - How To Fix Aggression Problems In Dogs
Again this section is available to learn in printed form or as an audio file (I actually
learned these lessons on the train, on my way to work listening to my ipod). This section of
Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer clearly defines the four main causes or types of dog
aggression. Adam really digs deep into how to correctly diagnose and fix these aggression
problems. He reveals one simple technique that he has used to fix 90% of the aggression
problems he encountered at his dog training school. What I learnt in this section is that it is the way we communicate with our dogs that is essential to correcting this problem - we
must be on the same page as our dogs.
Bonus 3 - How To Teach Any Dog To Walk On A Loose Leash In Less Than 10 Minutes!
The title says it all really. Adam spells out exactly what to do to stop your dog pulling
on the leash. These techniques work a treat. I've got to say it did take me and Pocky (my
whippet) a little longer than 10 minutes to master this skill, but we got there before long.
Bonus 4 - Free $25 E-mail Consultation With Adam
This is a great bonus. if you do decide to go ahead and purchase this package be sure to use
this service. Any specific problems you come across when training your dogs you can get the
answer to here. Also be aware that you will receive free access to heaps of training tips and
advice on Adam's website. This includes an active forum you can read and participate in (there's some brilliant tips to be found on this site).
Bonus 5 - How To Choose A Veterinarian
Unfortunately, as dog owners there will be times we need to call on the services of a good Vet. This book outlines some important factors to consider when making this decision. These points are general and apply to all dog owners, regardless of what part of the world you are in.
Bonus 6 - Where To Buy Dog Products At Wholesale Prices
Lists some very cheap suppliers of dog care and training products. This part of the package is most useful to residents of the U.S.A.
Bonus 7 - Dog Training Internet Resource File
This is another good little bonus. It's an exhaustive list of dog training related web sites,
registries, mailing lists, breeders, kennels, products, articles and information. You'll find
some real gems amongst this lot.
My Experience Using Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer
When I first set out to find a suitable do-it-yourself dog training system, this system is really what I hoped to find. It took me a while to wade through lots of the junk products out there, but it was worth it.
Of all the products I have tested, this one is clearly my personal favorite. It is by far
the most comprehensive and insightful product of its kind. Every stage and thinkable
situation of a dogs life is expertly addressed by Adam.
What Type Of Dog Owner Would Benefit Most From Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer?
I've recommended this package to many friends who are first time dog owners, I'd be just as
comfortable recommending it to Professional Dog Trainers. All dog owners (and their dogs)
would benefit from learning and applying Adam's cutting edge training methods. He is the
leading authority on how to properly bond with and obedience train any puppy or dog.
Chris Smith is a dedicated dog lover and creator of http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com
Train your dog the right way yourself at home. You may just strengthen the bond you share with your dog in the process.
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