How To Cut A Dog's Nails Without The Blood, Sweat and Tears!

How To Cut A Dog's Nails Without The Blood, Sweat and Tears!
By Marion Herbertson
Your Dog's Nails
How to cut a dog's nails is one of the most frequently asked question when it comes to grooming dogs.
Knowing how to cut a dog's nails is so important and if you're wondering how to trim a dog's nails - you need look no further. As usual, we've done all the research for you and presented you with a step by step guide on this delicate procedure.

• Knowing not only how, but also when to cut a dog's nails is so important. Your dog's nails grow constantly and how often they need to be clipped will depend on your dog's lifestyle. If you dog does a lot of his walking on hard surfaces, he may very well need little or no extra help in keeping his nails short as his nails will be naturally worn away through friction.

However, if like our dogs, your dog mainly stays on grass, sea sand and woodland tracks, clipping dog nails becomes an essential part of his or her grooming and it becomes important that you know how to clip dog nails.
Not knowing how to cut a dog's nails and failure in clipping dog nails will lead to crippling pain in your dog's paws and could lead to permanent damage and malformation.
If clipping dog nails is really not your strong point, take your dog along to your vet or groomer. They know how to cut a dog's nails - and it is amazing how much less of a prima donna your dog will be with total strangers!

When To Start
Dogs are often reluctant to have their nails clipped, therefore, starting the process at a very young age is a good idea.
Initially, get your dog accustomed to you simply holding and stroking their paws. Then progress to applying light pressure on their paws and nails - lightly pinching their nails between your finger and thumb. Reward them for allowing this.

• Then, after a lesson from your vets in how to cut a dog's nails, lightly trim a couple of nails a day. Just trim off the tips - this lessens the chances of you cutting too deep and frightening your dog off.

Talk to your dog in a soothing voice all the time and reward him with his favorite treat and a romp straight after. He will gradually grow accustomed to this unpleasant procedure and learn to at least put up with it.
Tools You Will Need
When you're wondering about how to cut a dogs nails, there are a variety of nail clippers and trimmers on the market. The guillotine type is my favourite tool when trimming dog nails, though a strong claw cutter may be required for the bigger breeds and basset hounds - they have incredibly large claws!
Sometimes you may want to use a small file or a dremel tool to file down any jagged edges after trimming a dog nails, but frankly, my dogs can't wait to get away from me, so I'm happy to let them round off any rough edges in the normal course of their everyday walks.
It is also advisable to keep a styptic pen handy just in case you clip into your dog's quick - but we'll discuss this later.

• Anatomy Of A Dog's Nail

Knowing how to cut dog's nails is easier when you know the anatomy of a dog's nail.
A dog's nail is constructed of a hard outer cover, which protects the quick which is the inner soft part containing blood vessels and tender nerve endings. In dogs with light coloured nails, the quick can often been seen as being faintly pinkish in color and is thus easy to avoid cutting into.
In the more common black nailed variety, the quick it totally invisible. Therefore, knowing exactly how to cut a dog's nails in this case is imperative. In these cases, trimming off little nibbles instead of large slices is more advisable.
Keep checking the clipped part of your dog's nail and look out for a dark spot in the middle of the newly clipped area - this shows the start of the quick - do not cut too far into this. Taking just tiny nibbles, you will then start to see a pale third inner circle. Stop there - or else you are likely to hurt your dog.
Also, don't forget your dog's dew claws. Growing on the inside of his legs and not in contact with the floor, these do not get worn away and will sometimes curl completely over causing your dog to get snagged in undergrowth, his bedding, etc. This can be very painful, so do keep those neatly trimmed too.
Best Way Of Clipping Dog Nails
The best way how to cut a dog's nails is to have the dog lying on a raised table or other surface. Do remember to put a non-slip mat for your dog to sit or stand on so she doesn't slip and hurt herself. Having someone strong hold your dog in their arms while you quickly clip a couple of nails is another effective way of doing this.

• However, your dog may be as good as gold and let you cut their claws with no fuss at all - in which case you are a very fortunate person!

Carefully read the instructions for the nail clipping tool of your choice. For example, with the guillotine, you need to cut from the underneath of your dog's claw upwards. Never clip downwards.
Position the tool in the right place, wait for an opportune moment when your dog stops wriggling, double check that the clipper is in the right place and squeeze firmly and smoothly - the nail will just pop off.
When wondering when and how to cut dog's nails, little and often is the best policy. Just nibbling off the ends of each claw will be less stressful for your dog - and yourself! The point to aim for is to trim off any bit that protrudes over your dog's pad. Thus, when he stands, your dog's claws should not touch the ground.
The good thing is, very much like our own nails, the more you trim your dog's nails, the more the quick will recede. Therefore, clipping dog nails doesn't have to be done all at once - take your time.
Oooops! You've Cut Into The Quick!
However experienced you are in knowing how to cut a dog's nails, accidents will happen.
Clipping into the quick will cause your dog to yelp in pain - I hate it when that happens. And, just as would happen if you cut into your quick, a fair amount of bleeding will occur. As much as you try to not let this happen - it will at some stage - so it is best that you learn to deal with it.
Please, let me reassure you that it is not half as dramatic as it looks. Keep calm, deal with the situation and give your dog a big cuddle and his favorite treat when it is all over.

• If learning how to cut a dog's nails is all a bit much for you, take your dog to a groomer (some will even come to your home) to have her nails trimmed. It doesn't cost very much and at least your dog wont hold it against you if her nails should accidentally be cut too deep!

If bleeding does occur, you have three options -

You let the bleeding stop normally - but this could go on for about 5 - 7 minutes (call the vet if it goes on for any longer) and be tramped into your carpets as your dog seeks to get away from you. Also, your dog will try to lick her bleeding nail, which could cause the bleeding to continue even longer.

You can hold a piece of tissue paper or a pinch of cornflour firmly against the source of the bleeding - if your dog will hang around long enough! - or

You can keep a styptic pen or stick handy as part of your dog's grooming kit, which when applied to your dog's nail will stop the bleeding instantly. It doesn't hurt your dog - which is a bonus. You can get this from your vet or a good pet store.General Feet Check-Ups
Though knowing how to cut a dog's nails is important, just as important is checking your dog's feet regularly.
Check her pads for thorns or broken glass. Our dogs love paddling in the sea and I also always ensure their paws are rinsed when they get home as dog skin is pretty sensitive to salt water.
I always check them when they come back from their forest walks too - I watch out for any signs of limping. Our dog, Holly in particular, being long haired, tends to bring half the woodland walk back home with her and I've occasionally found thorny bits buried deep within her coat.

• In winter, I pay special attention to our dogs' paws because of the salt gritting which takes place and also because they may have stepped on something they couldn't see under the snow.

In Conclusion
It is so important to keep your dog's nails trimmed and her feet in good condition. Walking on overly long nails is painful - can lead to broken nails, nail bed infection and huge amounts of bleeding - and can also lead to ingrown nails which break into the pads of your dogs paws.
Just a little bit of regular preventative action on your part can make life so much easier for your dog. Knowing how to cut a dog's nails and just a little extra bit of care and attention will go a long way towards keeping your dog active and healthy for a long, long time to come.
With years of experience in breeding, training and handling dogs, Marion Herbertson is first and foremost a dog lover. Visit [http://www.advice-on-pet-care-and-pet-product-supplies-online.com/Dog-Grooming.html] - for more of her practical, sometimes humourous advice on pet care.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Marion_Herbertson
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-To-Cut-A-Dogs-Nails-Without-The-Blood,-Sweat-and-Tears!&id=192400

Dog/Child Interaction: How to Develop a Safe Relationship

Dog/Child Interaction: How to Develop a Safe Relationship
By Nancy Settecasi
Dog-child interaction is the single most important issue to deal with if you have a child and a dog. Children love dogs but dogs don't always love children. When you bring home a new puppy, your child should be trained together with your dog. Dog owners need to remember that it takes two to tango. Children aren't often taught how to treat a new doggy which can make his life a living hell. This is not only torment for your dog but can be dangerous to your child. Never trust your child alone with ANY dog, regardless of how gentle that dog is known to be. A child tends to know just which buttons to press to turn the gentlest animal into a dangerous beast. Most dogs initially feel threatened by a child because they are at eye level, they have high-pitched voices and make vigorous movements. The dog senses that the child is somewhat unpredictable. Dog-child interaction should be monitored in order to make sure that child and your dog are getting along.

What you should teach your child
Do not let your child hug the dog until the dog-child relationship has developed and they've become comfortable with each other.
Children are accustomed to showing their affection with a hug, but some dogs will tolerate it while others will not.
Never approach a strange dog without asking the owner if it is o.k. to do so.
Allow the dog to sniff you before you try to pat him.
Stay away from stray dogs. A stray dog may carry disease or try to attack.
Never scream or run away from a dog. This will only start a chase.
Never run towards a dog or around a dog.
Never approach a dog face to face. This is threatening to them. Always approach a dog from the side. This will allow the dog-child relationship to develop.

• Never look a dog square in the eyes.

Never tease or hit a dog whether he's loose, tied up, behind a fence or in a crate.
Never play rough games with a dog, such as tug-of-war. This will encourage a dog to become aggressive.
Never pat a dog on the head. Always approach him under the chin or on his back.
Never bother a sleeping dog.
Never bother the dog while he's eating or chewing his favorite bone.
A dog is not a toy. Never yank on his ears or pull his tail.
If a dog poses a threat, teach your child to stay perfectly still with arms at the side, avoid eye contact, don't scream. If there is no one around who can pull the dog away, have your child use a jacket, schoolbag, garbage can cover, or anything he can find as a shield while backing away from the dog slowly.
If a dog has knocked your child to the ground, he should curl up into a ball with his hands behind his head to protect his face.

Never give the dog table food.
Always play with your dog under adult supervision.
Always be kind to your dog. This will help develop a dog-child friendship.
Always protect your dog from harm.

What you should know as a dog owner
Begin obedience training your dog as soon as possible. Don't wait til he gets older, it'll only get harder.
Never leave your child alone with the dog.
Never let your child walk the dog alone.
Never tie up your dog. Provide your dog with a fenced-in space instead.
Socialize your dog. Get him acquainted with other dogs as early as possible. You should also get him familiar with everything in his environment, both indoors and outdoors. This is key in attempting to establish a great dog-child relationship.
Reward your dog for good behavior with praise and a treat.
If you leave your dog in the yard, make sure your fence does not have spaces large enough for a child to stick their hands through.
Never allow your child to abuse the dog in any way. This will never enable a dog-child relationship to flourish.

• Give your dog a space to call his own to which he can retreat to if he is feeling bothered (such as a crate).

Do not allow your child to invade your dog's space especially while your dog is eating.
Get your dog used to being touched on all body parts. This will make him more comfortable around children.
Teach your dog to maintain a good temperament in the case of having his food bowl taken away while he's eating or removing a chew toy from his mouth. This will allow your dog to be more comfortable having a child around when he's eating or chewing on his favorite toy.
Teach your child how to properly handle the dog/puppy.
Walk your dog on a leash. Do not allow him to roam free.
Keep in mind that just because your dog is wonderful around your own children doesn't mean he will tolerate other children the same way.
Spay/neuter your dog.

If you have a dog and are expecting a baby
First off, if you haven't read the information above this subhead, go up and do so now. The above information will provide you with all the do's and dont's in preparing your dog for an addition to the family. If your dog has never been around a child for a long period of time, you will have the next nine months to get him used to it. Dog-child interaction is crucial at this stage.
Invite a niece, nephew, cousin, neighbor, etc. over for a few hours a week (Preferably a child who still wears a diaper. This will get the dog used to baby smell as well).

• This idea satisfies two objectives: it will get your dog used to having a child around; and will develop your dog's behavior in such a way which allows him to have a dog-child relationship with almost any child. Teach your dog how to behave around a child using much of the information discussed above.

Do not wait until the baby is born in order to make adjustments. Try to make as many adjustments as you can before the baby arrives, this way he won't be hit with all these changes at once. For instance, if you will have to move furniture around to accommodate a high chair or a playpen, this may affect the placement of your dog's bed and bowl. If so, make this move before the baby arrives. This will lessen the impact it will have on your dog and is less likely to affect the dog-child relationship.
Once you have the nursery set up for the baby, teach your dog that he will not be allowed in the room, at all. If he learns this before the baby comes, it will lessen the dog's resentment towards the baby.
Get your dog used to the sounds a baby makes by playing a recording of a baby cooing and crying. Play this recording in the nursery in order to indicate to your dog where exactly he can expect these sounds to be coming from.
Make accommodations for your dog for the day you go into labor. He may have to spend hours alone before daddy's comes home from the hospital.

• When it's time to bring the baby home, have someone go into another room with the dog while you put the baby down and get settled. Then bring the baby out and introduce the dog to the baby. The dog will probably give the baby a sniff or two and seek your attention. After all, he hasn't seen you in days. At this point, it would be a good idea to put the baby down and spend some time playing with the dog. Show him he's still loved. This will aid in the development of the dog-child relationship.

Your dog may require some extra attention in the first days of welcoming the baby. This will keep him from resenting the baby for stealing all the attention. Give him your undivided attention.
Allow your dog to be present when changing or feeding the baby.

• Never yell at your dog for getting too close to the baby. Allow him to sniff the baby in order to get used to his scent. Make sure this is done under strict supervision. This will help nourish the dog-child relationship.

As the baby gets older, you will teach him to respect the dog and be gentle towards him.
Get your child to help you with dog chores, such as feeding and walking the dog.
Before your know it, a natural dog-child bond will form which will give them a long-lasting friendship for years to come.
Help your child and your dog live in perfect harmony by adhering to these simple rules. Once a good dog-child relationship has been established, this bond will last a lifetime.
If you have trouble controlling your dog, you should bring your dog (and your child) to an obedience class to help you get started.
Nancy Settecasi, Owner of Happy K-9 Dog Care Proud owner of Cookie and Skippy, Cocker Spaniels, Dog lover http://www.happyk-9.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nancy_Settecasi
http://EzineArticles.com/?Dog/Child-Interaction:-How-to-Develop-a-Safe-Relationship&id=188355

Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs

Fearful Timid and Anxious Dogs
By Stan Rawlinson
Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life, (FACT) "95% of all reported dog bites are fear related".

• Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one's second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don't supply it ask why?
Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog's ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.
Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start "the abuse started at four months old" he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

• Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding. Not money or accolades!

Don't expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don't underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.
The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.
You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.
Distance Learning
To gain and improve a dog's confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog's new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let's say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog's body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

• Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog's state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.
Play or Training Therapy
There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blas� and go immediately outside and play with toys such as balls or Frisbees even a training session where you can praise for actions other than the fear this can be done whilst the noise is going on. You may therefore overcome a potential problem immediately.

• Why this works is the same principal as for instance flying, the plane suddenly hits a lot of turbulence, watch everyone's first reactions, they look to the Stewards/Stewardesses to see if they are showing anxiety. If they are calm and acting perfectly normally then our anxiety and fear also dissipates. It is worth trying this tactic when your dog has any negative experience, even though it does not appear too affected, just in case of a potential phobia later on.

Focused Attention
One way of getting your dog to overcome certain fear situations is to gain the dog's attention with treats, toys or your voice as you walk past whatever is causing the problem. This has a similar effect as using distance because the dog is thinking about something else instead. Therefore the intensity of the fear is reduced.
You will need treats or toys for this method I recommend either cheese, liver, or puffed jerky, do not use treats to lure dogs keep them out of sight till required. Sit next to the dog and call its name, it is even better if you can get a partner or friend to help on the other side, sit the dog between you and your partner or friend and say the dog's name. If he doesn't look at you, give his ear a gentle tug to gain his attention so that he turns his head towards you, As soon as this happens praise and treat enthusiastically or play or use a toy, get your partner/friend to do the same and keep repeating back and forth for a few minutes, do this regularly and for the rest of the dogs life, and he/she should always respond enthusiastically whenever his name is mentioned. Never use the dogs name in a negative situation, ie do not scold or punish using his/her name. Once you have got the dog to acknowledge his name then start these exercises:
To start focused attention say the dogs name and move immediately away from the dog when he moves towards and with you PRAISE and TREAT/PLAY immediately you can use a clicker for the praise or a target word, I use the word "good" in these circumstances. Remember to not show the treat until you are ready to give it or it will become part of the command.

• When you give the treat try and align it between both yours and the dog's eyes this will make sure you are making good eye contact after a while you will see the dog making eye contact regularly you can treat this action at this time so as to embed it. Do these sequences at least 4 times in a row, ie name/move/praise/treat. The repetition is what teaches the dog to maintain that attention until you give the release command. The release command can be OK or whatever you choose to use. Practice this everywhere you go including training classes.

What you are looking for by performing these exercises is to tune out outside influences including the ones that are causing a fear or aggressive response. Once you can comfortably perform this exercise use it to move gradually ever closer to the problem you are trying to overcome. Over time you can momentarily release the dogs attention, increase this as you would using the distance technique, if you get a fear response then you have moved too far too fast. And you must go back to where the dog last felt comfortable.
Punishment is not an Option
It is of no use whatsoever punishing the dog for its fearful actions, this only causes more stress and therefore more fearful behaviour, therefore in the case of interdog aggression even more defensive behaviour, remember the dog had really only three choices when confronted with a fearful situation these are commonly listed as the three Fs. Freeze, Flight or Fight. If the first two are found not to work the third one kicks in.
Let's take the vacuum cleaner as an example. If you had watched your pup from the first time it was confronted by this "demon of the dark abyss" he would more than likely have crouched down as low as possible his body rigid, if the noise and the monster continued the puppy would have run away, probably under a table or a chair and if it came closer it would have growled and snarled probably making darting and biting motions especially when you playfully pushed the Hoover closer to see the pups reaction. Anything ring a bell?
Some pups will be SO traumatised by the noise and the movement of the cleaner that they go into total freeze mode, our initial instinct would be to pick up and cuddle and comfort the frightened puppy. Perfectly natural human behaviour, something is frightened then nurture it. Unfortunately to a dogs mind this indicates that it is being praised for the fear, confirming his need to be fearful. If this happens when to pup is between 8 to 11.5 week old, which is the first of several fear periods throughout the dog's life, then that fear could be so deep rooted as to be almost impossible to eradicate completely.
Obedience Classes?
Some dogs that are fearful or timid may benefit from a training class especially one that uses positive methods. I, the case of a rescue dog or any adult dog that you have rehomed, I would wait at least six weeks before embarking on this method. Some very fearful dogs may be too nervous for class work until you've done some remedial work first. A private trainer or behaviourist should be able to help structure a positive approach to build up confidence in your dog, and also help determine when the dog is capable of class work.
Do not make your dog jump into the deep end at classes or you can go undo all the good work so far. Initially keep the dog on the outer edge of the class and at a distance from anything the dog fears. If you've developed focused attention before starting class, then this will be extremely useful for helping the dog relax in these situations. Some dogs may need several visits starting with very short periods at a time before actually participating in the classes. Unfortunately some dogs may never be able to function well enough for this type of remedial work.
What Other Treatments Could Help?
Change of Diet: A good quality food helps in many cases, most cheap food has cereal as filler, this can lead to a lack of serotonin, and low serotonin has been linked to aggression and anxiety. Feeding a good quality dog food has other benefits, it need not be more expensive as you do not require as much to get the same calorific intake, so it works out good value for money, but more importantly you are giving your dog a scientifically developed formula that is best for him or her. The nervous dog who eats a food overly-high in protein or sugar can experience even higher levels of anxiety. Therefore consider switching to a food with slightly lower protein levels.
To check on the level of protein of your dog's food, look on the back or side of the dog food bag or can, where the percentage of protein will be listed. Levels usually vary from 14% (for aged dogs) all the way up to 25% (for puppies and working dogs). I am not a fan of canned food I find a quality dry all in one food is a much better option,especially with the fearful phobic dog
If a nervous, hyper dog eats food with protein levels at around 22%, for example, consider trying a food with 18-20% protein. Doing so may help calm him down. If done in conjunction with regular exercise and desensitisation program.
These are a number of homeopathic and mainstream drugs that can be used in situations of stress, fear, aggression, barking, and noise aversion etc; these are a few of the ones available:
� Dr Bach's Flower Remedies: They are made from wild flowers. These gentle remedies are used to help relieve emotional and stress related disturbances in people and animals. The most common one used is Dr Bach's Rescue Remedy Available Me,Chemist, health food shop or internet
� Skullcap and Valerian: A traditional herbal remedy for the symptomatic relief of anxiety, nervousness, excitability and travel sickness, and an adjunct in the treatment of epilepsy in dogs and cats. Normally supplied in a sugar coated tablet, it helps to calm and relax dogs and cats suffering from, apprehension, phobias or hyperactivity.
Available Me, Chemist, health food shop or internet.
� Clomicalm About 14 per cent of dogs suffer from "separation anxiety" - a fear of being left alone - and Clomicalm claims to deal with the barking and "destructive behaviour". Its human equivalent is Anafranil, an anti-depressant. Unfortunately the side-effects can include vomiting and diarrhoea.
Available Vets
Clomicalm is a mainstream drug and I would be loath to suggest its use except in extreme cases where a anxiety desensitisation program using perhaps just herbal helpers initially has not worked. It is far better to work on the symptoms that mask them with drugs.
With all the above it is always prudent to discuss any medication with your Vet before embarking on any treatment program
Stan Rawlinson Dip MTCBPT. MPAACT Adip.CCB
Stan is a fully Insured professional Dog Behaviourist and Obedience Trainer, who has owned and worked dogs for over 35 years, starting with gundogs then moving to the behavioural and obedience side of training companion dogs. He has a successful practice covering Greater London, Surrey, Middlesex, Berkshire, Kent, Sussex, Hampshire, Though is available to travel to any location in the UK if required.
Recommended by numerous Vets, Rescue Centre's, and Charities. He writes articles and comments on behavioural issues and techniques for dog magazines including Our Dogs, Dogs Monthly, Shooting Times, Pet Talk and Pet Owner Magazine. He has acted as a behavioural expert for Disney, Sky, BBC, ITV, and LBC. and has appeared on television, radio and in national newspapers on numerous occasions. He is currently filming for a new eight part series for Television which is due to be aired late autumn/early winter.
He is the Founder Member and current Chairman of PAACT
The Professional Association of Applied Canine Trainers He is also the designer and developer the amazing new training aid The Jingler.
Stan also acts as an expert witness in cases involving the DDA (Dangerous Dogs Act 1991. and lectures and gives practical demonstrations at national and international meetings and symposiums.
He also gives practical demonstrations of his remarkable ability to work with all dogs by taking them out of the audience. He is currently filming for a series on Sky one HD and Sky one called Dogumentary
� Stan Rawlinson
Telephone: 0208 979 2019
Mobile Number: 07976 153161
E-mail:enquiries@doglistener.co.uk
web site http://www.doglistener.co.uk
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Stan_Rawlinson
http://EzineArticles.com/?Fearful-Timid-and-Anxious-Dogs&id=174719

Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1

Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1

By Danny Presswood
On a recent episode of "America's Funniest Home Videos," (AFV) one of the top three submissions for the $10,000 prize was a video of the aftermath of destruction a family's pet dog had done to their home. This dog had destroyed an end table, ripped the frame off a doorway, demolished a patio door screen and frame, shredded carpeting, broken glassware, and had literally "eaten" a three foot by four foot hole in the wall - destroying sheetrock, insulation, and framing in the process. He was a one dog demolition crew! I was horrified and appalled as I watched the video and listened to the mixture of giggles and gasps from the viewing audience. It was as if the poor, unsuspecting family shrugged their shoulders and said "Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?"


The more appropriate question, however, is "My dog, my dog, WHY do you do what you do?" The answer to that question is not a simple one. Entire books have been written concerning "bad dog behavior." And the truth is that every dog is different, and therefore, there is no "pat answer" for every situation. However, a basic understanding of "Who dogs are, and How they behave" will lead us to some appropriate suggestions on how to handle difficult and domineering dogs. If you suffer from "Bad Dog Syndrome," this article will help you understand who your dog is (Alpha Dog Mentality), and teach you how to "reprogram" and your misbehaving dog. Soon you'll be saying "Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh how I love you!" You can find the follow-up article "Bad Dog, Bad Dog" Part 2, in the Feature Articles section at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises.

But before we proceed, if you suffer from "bad dog syndrome" with your family pet, make sure there isn't an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn't suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is healthy, the following information should prove helpful.
Dogs are, by nature, pack animals. Pack animal behavior is instinctive from before dogs were domesticated and lived in the wild. Every pack has a hierarchy, and every animal in the pack has duties, responsibilities, and expectations. Since your dog doesn't live in the wild, he/she assumes you, your family, and other household pets make up the "pack." Many times, "bad dog behavior" is a result of confusion over "Alpha Dog Status" or "Alpha Dog Mentality." You must establish that you are the "Alpha" dog in the pack. You must also establish that other family members, to include the children, all rank higher in the pack than your dog does. There are many ways to effectively put your dog in his proper pack ranking. Here are a few suggestions, or rules, for handling domineering dogs, and establishing pack rankings:
1. When you enter the house, make sure your dog enters last, even if you must put her on a leash. This shows her where she ranks in the family "pack."
2. Alpha dogs want the run of the entire house. Make sure certain areas of the home are out of bounds for the dog. That may include certain bedrooms, the laundry room, bathrooms, or the den. This helps the dog know you are master of the house, not him.
3. Alpha dogs occupy high traffic areas, like hallways and entryways. Don't step over or go around the dog, nudge the dog and tell her to move out of your way, and make sure she does so. This lets her know who owns the space and who is in charge.
4. Don't allow your dog to DEMAND your attention. Dogs usually do this by climbing on your lap, or by nudging your hand or arm. Make the dog sit, lie down, etc., and then give lavish praise and attention. Remember, you control when you give your dog attention, affection, and praise.
5. Exercise control over your dog's possessions. Take away all her toys, then give her a command, and when she obeys, give her the toy as a treat. After she plays with it for awhile, take it away again.
6. When you come home, make your dog greet you first. Ignore him until he does. He must be submissive to you, not the other way around.
7. Establish dog eating times. In the pack, the Alpha dog always eats first, and then the other dogs eat. Make sure the family eats first, followed by the dog. If you must feed the dog first, pretend to eat something first, then feed your dog. Leave the dog's food out for 10-15 minutes, then take it up, whether the dog is finished or not. She will learn quickly to eat when fed.
8. Always stroke (pet) your dog around the head, neck, and shoulders. These are vulnerable areas for the dog, and shows that you are superior. Be careful not to stroke your dog around the chest, because this puts him in the dominating position and undermines your authority as alpha dog.
9. Don't allow your dog to sleep in your bed! I know that's a tough one for some folks, but believe me, it's best for all concerned. The best thing to do is provide the dog with her own cage, crate, or bed. Put it in your bedroom if that helps you, but do it. Dogs "Kennel" by nature. They like a safe, snug place they can call their own.

Your dog is your pet. Ultimately, all he/she really wants is your love and affection (i.e. time together). Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is and the role he plays in the family relationship, will soon move you from saying "Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?" to saying, "Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!"
By the way, the "Destructive Dog" video did not win a prize on AFV, although I'm sure the family could have used the money for repairs. Following our guidelines would prove a lot less expensive and would make for a much more harmonious family and pet relationship.
Danny Presswood, 2006 All Rights Reserved.
Danny Presswood is a retired US Army Combat (Airborne) Chaplain. He and his wife Cheri live in the wooded Ozarks hills of SW MO. Presently working on his Doctorate, Danny writes the Feature Articles for K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises, [http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com] K-9 Outfitters offers a plethora of discount, luxury, unique, and handmade in the USA dog supplies.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Danny_Presswood
http://EzineArticles.com/?Bad-Dog,-Bad-Dog,-Whatcha-Gonna-Do?-Part-1&id=161645

Canine Clicker Training - Why Dogs Love The Click And Treat Method

Canine Clicker Training - Why Dogs Love The Click And Treat Method
By Andrea Fraser
Have you ever dreamed of transforming your furry friend into the perfect canine companion? An obedient angel who knows a wide variety commands and listens without hesitation? As every dog owner knows, this requires training. One of the most popular methods today is clicker training, also known as the click-and-treat method. This style of training is popular with owners and dogs alike. Humans love how easy this method is to master and how quickly we see results. But what is it about clicker training that dogs love?
Clicker training uses a small mechanical device to produce a "click" sound. This sounds lets your dog know when he is doing something you like such as sitting, laying down, or any other "good dog" behavior. The "click" is quickly followed by a positive reward, typically a treat. Your dog is motivated by the reward to perform the same action again and again. Hand signals and verbal cues are then introduced. Eventually, the click-and-treat is phased out. Voil�, a command is learned!
Training is all about communication. As close as our relationship is, dog-human communication is hindered by an obvious language barrier. Clicker training helps to bridge this comprehension gap. The sound produced by a clicker is consistent, unique, precise, and quick.
The sound of the clicker is extremely easy for our dogs to interpret. Human voices vary dramatically in tone and inflection depending on our mood. Even the simple "sit" can sound like different commands if we are happy, frustrated, or frantic. The sound of the clicker, however, always remains the same.
Our dogs are masters at reading our emotions. This isn't always beneficial in training, especially if your emotions aren't positive. The sound of the clicker is emotion-neutral. A click can never sound angry, frustrated, or disappointed. Our dogs want to please us. The less negative information they receive, the more enjoyable training becomes.
Since English isn't our dogs first language, spoken words can be challenging for them to identify. For example, what if you use the word "good" as a marker instead of a click? This can get confusing for your dog when they hear you use the same word in day-to-day talk. The "click" is easy for our dogs to distinguish. The sound of the clicker is unique and not easily confused with everyday speech.
The clicker makes it easy for our dogs to know exactly which actions are being rewarded. With minimal practice, we humans can become adept at clicking the instant we see the behavior we want from our dogs. Less confusion means less stress for both human and dog.
Recent studies have also provided fascinating insight into how the clicker sound is processed in our dog's brain. Rather than passing first through the cortex, the thinking part of the brain, the "click" travels directly to the amygdala. The clicker delivers information directly, without your dog having to process human speech. The amygdala is an ancient portion of the brain with a key role in processing emotions. It's been theorized that the positive reinforcement of clicker training elicits a joy response straight from your dog's amygdala!
Clicker training helps build a training partnership between you and your dog that is respectful, enjoyable, fun, and innovative.
In clicker training, the only motivation that is offered to your dog is positive. Rather than punishing unwanted behavior, unwanted behavior is simply ignored. By avoiding the use of corrections, a relationship based on mutual respect, rather than fear, is established. Your dog will enjoy training sessions!
Clicker training allows your dog to become an active participant in the training process. There will come the moment in clicker training when your dog realizes - I am the one making the click happen. Once this occurs, training takes on an added dimension of enjoyment for your dog. He becomes mentally engaged in the process. He will begin offering you a variety of behaviors to see which ones will score him a reward.
Once your dog has made the connection between his behavior and a possible reward, clicker training can become extremely innovative. The only limits are your dog's creativity and your willingness to play along. If your dog offers you a unique or funny behavior, mark it with a click, and treat! Along with being mentally stimulating, this process also helps foster your dog's self-esteem.
It's never to late to start clicker training with your dog. This method of training is enjoyable not only for you, but for your canine companions as well. Happy Clicking!
For more on all things dog, visit Andrea Fraser's blog at www.twobully.com.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrea_Fraser
http://EzineArticles.com/?Canine-Clicker-Training---Why-Dogs-Love-The-Click-And-Treat-Method&id=5533169



Ways to Make Your Dog Love You

By Dr Joe Njenga
If you think that being lenient on your dog and letting him have his way will make your dog love you then think again. Connections and bonds formed by dogs go far beyond feeding and occasional petting of the dog. Love in dogs comes from an understanding that they are secure and well taken care of by their owner. A dog that is comfortable with the owner is corrected when he I wrong and has had plenty of time to build strong bond will become very attached to his owner.
Love is more than a feeling, it is the missing link in communication between you and your dog. How do you make your dog love you is the million dollar question?
- Connections start to be made when the puppy is young. This period is usually the make and break period for a relationship. Spending time with the puppy, holding him, petting him is an important step that will begin the process of establishing a link.
- Do not punish the dog, this does not mean you let the dog get away with mistakes, rather correct them but do not use physical punishment. Dogs learn faster if they understand the reason behind what you are trying to teach them. Hitting a dog because he made a mess on the floor is pointless and should be avoided.
- Even if you are busy, take a break and go spend some fun time with your dog. Play a game, run around or just walk around your block. This time is not training time though you may teach your dog a trick, it is meant
- Take authority. Dogs are pack animals that appreciate when someone takes leadership of the pack. When you are in control your dog will have someone to look up to for guidance.
- Training: This is not to make your dog love you but is part of the bond forming process. Training aims to establish a communication channel. It is easy for your dog to be please you if he know what you expect from him. Correct behaviour will result in praise and that together with a sense of accomplishment will make the dog happy that you are happy with him.
- Understand your dog, what makes him happy and what doesn't? What is the dog afraid of? Which are his favourite games? Favourite food? Which places does he like to go? Dogs in many ways are like small children, pleasing them only requires a bit of effort on your part to understand them.
- Do not neglect your dog when he needs you most, abandoning your dog when he is incapacitated by an injury or is diagnosed with a fatal disease is a very wrong move on your part. If your dog has served you well over the years and has been there for you through good and bad, doesn't he deserve the same kind of treatment?
- Lastly providing the dog with his vital needs is also a good sign to the dog, this means shelter, food and good health.
Dr Joe Njenga is a Practicing Veterinarian Who Currently works as an Online Veterinary Practitioner providing Websites with Professional Veterinary Live Support. You can Learn More about taking care of your Dog from Dog Care Tips Blog http://dogcaretip.wordpress.com/
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dr_Joe_Njenga
http://EzineArticles.com/?Ways-to-Make-Your-Dog-Love-You&id=6645326

Does My Dog Love Me?

Does My Dog Love Me?
By Mark P Singer
Dogs are a social pack animal, and bond to packs, and individual pack members. Dogs within a pack, do not love each other as we define the term love. For example, a dog doesn't fall in love with a pack member and start an emotional relationship with it. A puppy doesn't "love" its mother and maintain an emotional connection for its entire life. Nor does the mother love its children and keep an ongoing relationship with them for its entire life. Once the pups are old enough to start fending for themselves, the mother ceases her motherly instincts with them, and treats them as other pack members. Dogs do not have an emotional relationship with their brothers and sisters. A dogs instinct is the continued survival of the pack, and it is only the higher and stronger pack members that are actually allowed to mate within a pack. This is to ensure that only the strongest genes are passed on, which therefore guarantees pack survival. So there is no emotional connection such a love between dogs, as we define the term love from a human perspective.

• Our domesticated dogs do not have the capacity to love us, as we define the term love, just as they do not have the capacity to love each other. Yes they bond strongly with certain members of the family, depending on the amount of time spent with the dog, and the quality of that relationship from the dogs perspective. For example, I understand that my dog does not love me, he however has a strong bond with me based on respect and consistent leadership. In many homes, dogs bond with their human family, and bond to the family as the families (pack) leader. Or in many situations, totally confused and not understanding where it fits into the social hierarchy of the pack (family) it belongs too.

We as dog owners need to be careful that we don't equate this strong bond as loving us. Many owners who see their dog as loving them may inadvertently reinforce unwanted behaviour due to our concept of the term love from a human perspective. Some dog owners that feel their dog loves them, tend to allow their dog to dictate the terms of the relationship, by not totally understanding why their dog does what it does. For example. a dog that continually seeks and demands attention, some owners see that as a dog that "loves" to be with them and is only wanting affection and to be loved by us. A dogs relationship within the family is based on social pack instinct. Dogs do not seek out love from other members of the pack. We need to be aware of this to ensure we imprint into our dog correct behaviour, social skills, and to ensure unwanted behaviour is not enforced.

• We must always be very careful that we do not humanise our dogs by placing human values on them. This type of relationship is the major reason there are so many dogs in society with behavioural and psychological problems.

I am not at all suggesting we shouldn't love our dogs. I for one love my dog, but I also understand that he does not have the same capacity to love me, as I define the word love. I need to be aware of this at all times when having a relationship with my dog, and not confuse a dogs natural instincts with love. I do not stop loving my dog because I understand he doesn't have the capacity to love me in the same way. But in loving my dog I also must be aware of my dogs natural instincts.
Mark Singer
Adelaide Canine Training
http://www.caninetraining.com.au
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Mark_P_Singer
http://EzineArticles.com/?Does-My-Dog-Love-Me?&id=5863611

Does Your Dog Bite? How to Protect Your Dog and Yourself from Liability

Does Your Dog Bite? How to Protect Your Dog and Yourself from Liability

• By Amanda St. John

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Foster and Rescue, claim that dogs bite more than 4.7 million people every year in the United States.
The blame could be the dog's, the owner's, or the victim's. But the one who invariably pays, is the owner. The owner of the dog becomes responsible for paying for the medical bills, time lost from work as well as pain and suffering. The one who suffers most, is the dog that is abandoned in a shelter or disposed of.
Dog owners should assume more than their share of the responsibility for protecting people and other animals from their dogs, and also assume the responsibility to protect their dogs from people. Kids will run up to a dog screaming in delight and frighten the dog. A dog in his excitement to greet someone may jump up and scratch him or her. A passer-by may approach a dog aggressively or provoke him. Neighborhood kids may let the dogs out just to have some fun.
There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk:
o Spay or neuter your dog. This important and routine procedure will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs, making safe confinement an easier task. Spayed or neutered dogs are much less likely to bite.

o Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
o Train your dog. Accompanying your dog to a training class is an excellent way to socialize him and to learn proper training techniques. Training your dog is a family matter. Every member of your household should learn the training techniques and participate in your dog's education. Never send your dog away to be trained; only you can teach your dog how to behave in your home. Note that training classes are a great investment even for experienced dog caregivers.
o Be alert with your dog around children. Rambunctious play may startle your dog, and he may react by snapping or biting. Neighborhood children may be attracted to your dog, so make sure you have a child-proof lock on your gate and there is no way for little hands to get through the fence.
o Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Never teach your dog to chase after or attack others, even in fun. Your dog can't always understand the difference between play and real-life situations. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior.

• Don't wait for an accident.

The first time he exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
o Be a responsible dog owner. License your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, don't allow your dog to roam alone. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied on a chain often become dangerous. Dogs who are well socialized and supervised are much less likely to bite.
o Stay on the safe side. If you don't know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.
I thought you said your dog doesn't bite? "That's not my dog" ... says Peter Sellers.
Seriously, if your dog bites someone, act responsibly; take these steps to mitigate the harm:
o Confine your dog immediately and check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.
o Provide the victim with important information, such as the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination.
o You should cooperate fully with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital. Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.
o Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services.

If you have to let your dog go, don't drop him off at a shelter, where he will only be given a few days to live. Take the time to find him a new family. To do this there is a support and training network called MuttShack, at http://www.Muttshack.org, who will teach you how to re-home your pet.
o If your dog's dangerous behavior cannot be controlled, and you have to make the painful decision to give him up, do not give him to someone else without carefully evaluating that person's ability to protect your dog and prevent him from biting. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else.
o Never give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. "Mean" dogs are often forced to live miserable, isolated lives, and become even more likely to attack someone in the future. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. Be safe, be responsible and most importantly, teach your dog to be a good canine citizen.
o Your dog lives to make you happy. If he understands what you need from him, he will make you proud.
About Muttshack:
Muttshack Foundation is a 501(c) 3 non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.
Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.
By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters.
Donations Saves Lives. Visit animals online who are in danger of being put to sleep at http://www.muttshack.org. Join us in preventing animals from entering shelters that kill. Support Muttshack Animal Foster and Rescue Foundation, at http://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Amanda_St._John
http://EzineArticles.com/?Does-Your-Dog-Bite?-How-to-Protect-Your-Dog-and-Yourself-from-Liability&id=40887

How to Keep Your Dog From Running Away Plus How to Build a Very Cosy (Free) Pet Bed

How to Keep Your Dog From Running Away Plus How to Build a Very Cosy (Free) Pet Bed
By Paul Casebourne
How the big four commands save lives
According to the National Health Service and media reports, over 4,500 incidents a year in the U.K. involve dogs and people, with children being the biggest victim group.. You are more likely to be bitten by a dog than win the lottery!
One incident is an unwelcome statistic but until you accept that your pet dog runs away because you let it these incidents are going to continue to occur. There are 5 basic steps, 4 big commands and 3 essential pieces of equipment which you need to learn how to use effectively to gain control and to build discipline into your dog. This guide explains how to do this and how to stop your dog running away. A collar and lead are working instruments of control, just the same as holding your child's hand. Mobile phones are another safety device we use with our children to maintain contact and for a much safer and secure environment. Our dogs are no less important and are at a higher statistical risk than our children. Your voice alone is not going to be enough. Whistling is hard work and it assumes your dog finds the whistle more compelling than what is at the end of its nose. You must start to appreciate that stopping your pet running away is a skill to be learned and developed on an on going basis, and like people, the input of patience and unconditional love, will very likely be paid back. The probability is that if your children are model children then your dog probably will be too, but that doesn't mean it is going to be easy to train, it just means you probably have the mindset and determination to keep your dog safe and disciplined. I admit this article may be a bit controversial but the techniques work and will not harm or hurt your dog. Neglect and ignorance is a much bigger killer. If you want to stop your dog running away there are 3 things your must achieve:

Instant response
Your dog's whole and undivided attention
Complete obedience

You need to understand that there are 3 reasons why your dog will run away:-

Sex
Cruelty
Owner mismanagement

All three of the reasons as stated above can get your dog killed or seriously injured. If you then overlay lack of success with the 3 disciplinary aspects you have serious issues to deal with and you need to correct this quickly or risk your dog causing death or serious injury. The end result will be the loss of your pet by lethal injection, gunshot or fatal injuries. If minors are involved and they are your own family it will destroy not only your life but that of your entire family. This is how I see it anyway and it is this that motivates me to get it right. Your pet running off is not to be taken lightly. I propose to examine a few simple helpful hints that might make your life more bearable and improve your relationship with the animal at a level you can both appreciate and work on to good effect. I am going to ignore the first two reasons that cause running away. If you need guidance to deal with them please give your dog to a loving home, this article is not for you. Your dog is born with senses which once engaged are so compelling that you pale into insignificance the minute they are engaged. You don't need to be a dog whisperer to understand this, but you can see it for yourself the minute you call your dog back. It is not a great moment when your dog embarrasses you for your inability to handle it. I think one year in a dog's life is about 6.5 of our years, so by the end of year one your dog should be starting to make out sounds, short sentence structures and words. The four most important commands in order are:

sit
heal
down
stay

Dogs are quick learners. Not only do they know your mood, they take everything right to the edge all the time and they are also very persistent. The sooner you start teaching them the better, try to make it fun without finishing up with a fat dog. Remember your children should not be force fed a big McDonalds every time they get their table manners right and The National Hedgehog Road Skills award has never been won by a hedgehog. A lead is the equivalent of your child's hand. You communicate through it just the same way. You would not let your child pull you off your feet, especially on a main road, so use the same discipline with your dog.

• Step 1. It is always your fault

I really don't think that Springer Spaniels with their long floppy ears can hear you properly over 30 metres away unless you really shout which makes you look in control doesn't it. When I was younger I had a liver and white springer 'Bramble'. He never knew to this day what hit him when he was busy rounding up sheep. I would have been able to play for the British Lions with a rugby tackle like that, the dog went flying, not in the least bit hurt, just caught in the act. He yelped just with fright, but never chased sheep again and after this incident if he could hear me he responded instantly to all the big 4 commands.

• Step 2. How to stop your dog pulling you off your feet.

A sharp and very hard tug on the lead pulling your dog back behind you will do the trick. After the second or third time they will desist. This is obviously easier to do when your St. Bernard is a puppy, which is why i say start straight away. Bad habits are developed by the owners not the dogs. Never allow your dog to pull. Start by holding your dog's hand (the lead) and work firmly in a disciplined and in a fair way, and reward good performance and discipline and work on behaviour that falls short. Little and often is good and a routine is helpful. The thing that really gets results is patience. You would not take your child out into a distracting environment to teach them so don't do it to your dog either. Get the dog's attention and eye contact and progress will improve. If you are having trouble getting the dog's attention increase the treat value e.g. fillet steak. This is about hearts and minds and developing absolute trust. The time to use treats is at the outset of teaching the command. Once the dog understands what is required of it, a pat on the head and some encouraging words is sufficient.

• Step 3. How to slow your dog down to your speed

How many of you would not hold on to your 6 year old child's hand in the city centre? Would you expect your six year old to speak fluent Russian? No, so don't expect your dog to understand what sounds the same to them. Use the lead to build confidence and lots of patience. By the time your dog is six months old they will be getting more biddable, more curious and more determined but up to the first year you can never be certain. However you are desperate to give your dog the freedom of that run about. A game keeper taught me a very good tactic called hobbling. Your dog's collar should always allow you to get three fingers under it, if you can't it is too tight. Simply stick your dog's front paw through the collar, it looks cruel, its not and you can catch a dog on three legs, it puts the odds in your favour, so you now have the opportunity to train your dog to stay close to you, or get it back safely. Don't use a retractable lead it encourages your dog to pull. Dogs on retractable leads are not properly trained (such a statement could be highly controversial but I would presume that those owners won't be reading this type of article so there won't be anyone to offend!)

• Step 4. Timing - how long does it take to train my dog? I think 300 hours gets a basic job done before your dog will specialise into say rescue, field sports, or social human tasks like police or military work. It takes a good year to settle and train a dog. If you get the big 4 commands in quickly and early the dog will start to perform well but it will take at least a year so be patient and persist. Practice all the time - practice makes perfect. ( it also helps you lose weight!). I now have a black and white Springer Spaniel and she was terrible for running off. This was my fault. On dark evenings I only needed to get distracted for a second and the dog was gone. There I am in the dark and pouring rain, shouting my head off and the dog is in the next county. Twenty anxious minutes later I get a ball of mud back! Never be cross with a returning dog, it is after the fact and they may misinterpret you, causing trauma and confusion. Simply make a note to self to set up a training session in a controlled environment to fix the problem whilst kicking your own bottom and not the dogs!

Step 5. How to stop your dog running away
You spend hours and hours working with them, you teach the big 4 commands and when they are over six months old and really understand the commands then you have to bring discipline to bear or face the possibility of an unthinkable incident. I have tried whistles, chasing after her and just leaving her, none of which are satisfactory and just exposes the dog to danger. If I can't control the dog at both short and long range she is useless in the field other than as a pet. So how do I stop my pet from running away. A game keeper suggested an electric collar. I dismissed it out of hand as being cruel, but it is not as cruel as watching your dog in agony pinned down under a car wheel. I decided to try an electric collar but resolved to be kind and fair. It has transformed the dog without any cruelty at all and this is how it works: First and only after 6 months minimally, and only when the big 4 commands are in place can you use one. My collar has an audible alarm which the dog can hear even when she can't hear or see me. She quickly learned to respond to this bleep, it means only one thing 'Heal'. Since wild life has hearing and great vision too, we get to see lots of it when we are out now because we are quiet, the dog is under control at all times and above all is safe. Your dog and especially Springer Spaniels will want to do as you ask. You must be there at the time of any incident which demands attention or arresting and a bleeper really is on the spot and instant. If the dog doesn't respond there are 8 settings to 'tweak your dog's ear', building up to a shock. All of these are much gentler than rough handling or hitting the dog. All of them hurt a lot less than impact with an HGV. I must stress that if you don't have the big four commands in place and a confident dog you should not deploy such a device, just keep your dog on a lead. The collar is only for the dog's protection and control and the charge, which is about the same as a static shock from a door handle, does not cause the dog much discomfort, but it lets her know I want her attention when all else fails which is pretty rare these days. I don't know how the shepherds do it but they have my admiration. I don't need my little dog to achieve those levels. We have lots of fun together and she adores my two girls, mind you she adores everyone including the postman! I think that patience is the secret and then it's a matter of time.. She also has a special settee in our garden room (but never assumes this right in the house), and a dog house made out of straw bales which she loves as it is very warm. She also knows where the edge is, and pushes it like crazy, but she is safe and well behaved and under control at all times because she can hear me and every day that goes by her knowledge of language and disciplined procedure improves. I think I will always use an electric collar now, it is a safety device which makes me much less apprehensive about the dog's behaviour because I can focus on expanding the dog's comprehension of commands, so her behaviour continues to improve and she plays an even bigger and much more enjoyable part in day to day activities. If you don't want your pet to run off get to grips with the collar, lead, teaching, rewarding and discipline and be heard - the best way to do that quietly is with a bleeping collar - really it works. I think these new devices are the dog equivalent of a 2 way radio. No soldier goes into combat without one. I think they are here to stay and used responsibly will transform your life and make teaching your dog a real joy and with much less stress. Remember it is your finger on the button and you decide whether you are a dog trainer or a dog breaker - I know which I am.
How long does it take to teach your dog the big 4 Commands?
It takes about 20 minutes armed with some really 'must have' treats, and then repeat the training a day or so later for a few minutes until you see it work immediately. I use mackerel fillets but anything other than chocolate will do the trick. For every minute of training you need an hour of practice to get the command working consistently and then three or four times longer to get them all working together. You will pay for gaps in your routine and you will be able to notice when others have handled your dog. Dogs will always push to the limit to see what they can get away with so you have to be that limit and you can't always do that by being nice and feeding the dog treats. Never break your dog by cruelty and bullying to get the obedience you want, a broken dog does not work properly and anyone who has trained a dog will spot a broken dog a mile off, you can't hide it and you can't repair the damage.
A command should be instant, it is useless if it is not and may get you, your children, the dog or some poor unsuspecting motorist into an unthinkable situation, it is worth the effort.

• Should you let the dog on the sofa - Training Versus Behaviour?

Oh boy is this a hot potato! Firstly your dog knows the difference between the scruffy couch in the playroom and the one in the living room but you may have to work more on the training. You can let your dog do anything you like provided you put the effort in with the ground rules, but here is a simple guide.
Your dog has two basic barks, one to warn and the other is more playful. Learn what they are and what they mean. If you don't want a yappy dog you will get the opportunity at about 10 months to sort it out.
Don't allow your dog to behave in a way that would be offensive to others, I am sure you don't need a list from me.

• You can use a smack, a firm push or voice commands so long as it is immediate. If your dog is beyond reach you will need to either be very quick (voice and run) or use an electric collar. A sharp shock beats a fight or injury. If this is administered at the start of the action the dog is unlikely to repeat the offence. You won't break the dog doing this. Prolonged aggression or fierce punishment fills your dog with terror. I have heard them start to yelp before a blow is struck because they know what is coming. Could you do your job knowing someone is about to give you a good kicking? Neither can the dog. I have never seen a broken dog that didn't bring a lump to my throat and have me biting my lip to hold back the tears. Like the dog I suffer quietly in silence unable to speak.

Being a good dog owner and handler
Bad behaviour develops as a result of lack of effort or selfishness by the owner. Like your children the more patience and time you spend with them and effort you put into your dog, the more reward you can expect with a strong measure of devotion paid back. Like children they will pick up trauma between adults and they don't like it. Neglect will result in the dog making up its own rules and then you will need a dog psychologist to intervene. Unless the dog is ill and requiring 24 hour supervision, I would advocate they should have their own special place. A kennel is usually the best so they can have peace and quite to relax and dry/chill out and be themselves. You wouldn't normally have your children in bed with you, so I think it is a bit odd to have your pets there too. Lack of common sense is what develops poor animal behaviour. Plenty of exercise, good diet, discipline, routine, care and attention will work for your dog.

• In summary, the three essential pieces of equipment required are a lead, a collar and an audible device that can be heard anywhere instantly by your dog which upon being heard recalls your dog to your side.. If a measure of force is required then this device should have the ability to administer it or be backed up by it.

How to Make a cosy dog bed for free - well almost
I think a great bed makes a very happy dog, especially if they have a full tummy
As an engineer, specialising in materials handling and storage, when it comes to a bed for the dog I wanted to create a cosy place for her to sleep. For several months I persevered with pet cushions etc but they just get filthy and are not very easy to clean or warm to sleep on outdoors. In winter this year we had two feet of snow, which the dog loved but it was cold for her and I wanted something better.

• Pallets are often equipment you can pick up for free. Two or three of them are very simple to convert into a bed. 1000mm x 1200mm is a perfect size. If you have an outhouse, garage or shed they will fit easily inside. It doesn't matter if the dog chews them, the wood can be recycled or used for fire wood and if you use straw, the straw can be composted or burned. Now this solution is not for everyone but the dog will love it and you may grow to love it and here is why:

The straw helps clean the dog
The dog can scrape and arrange the straw as it wants it
The pallet and a few straw bales make a very cosy den
Filled with straw your dog can live comfortably outside in all weathers
Living outside is better for the dog
Dogs will grow their natural seasonal coats in line with the climate. Inside they go into a state of permanent moulting, outside unheated they can live more naturally.
The straw is cosy and warm the year round especially with the added protection of 380mm to 450mm of insulation on 6 sides
The pallet keeps your dog off the cold floor - essential.
Straw bales range from �1.75 to �3.50

Before you go into blind panic about scabies or mange, I have never had any trouble. However if you are worried ask your vet, I think you will find that the modern treatments keep them at bay anyway. Do watch out for nails and cardboard (stapled on). Plywood makes good tops if the wood is spaced or a bit rough and then the deep straw does the rest.

• My dog really loves her straw bed and is quite happy to get into it and I rarely see her little black nose come round the edge of the bale until I call for her.

There is an awful lot of nonsense talked about training and not much help with the real control commands when they don't work. Much of the time it is just not possible to intercept mistakes and behavioural dysfunction in time to correct it in a way the dog can quickly grasp the requirement. This just makes it tougher on both you and the dog
I am a materials handling engineer by profession, and a keen motorcyclist which I use for work most of the year round. The BMW GS 1200 Adventure is a challenging and awesome machine, so if you are in commerce or industry and want to build or equip a new warehouse or production unit, please go and visit my website.

• I have had spaniels most of my life, having grown up with them. I have always found it hard to get help with the really tricky bits of training. I prefer to train the basics and build my own relationship with my dog and I like to see her working in the field doing what she does best and then getting her to come back to me in an orderly way and not via the adjoining county. I usually send the dog for a season with a keeper to specialise, it's a bit like doing a ski season for the dog.

For more details on how to build such a cosy dog den visit
http://www.engineeredsolutions.info/Great-Ideas/Dog-Bed-from-Timber-Pallets/View-all-products.html
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Casebourne
http://EzineArticles.com/?How-to-Keep-Your-Dog-From-Running-Away-Plus-How-to-Build-a-Very-Cosy-(Free)-Pet-Bed&id=6036384

Walking Your Dog

Walking Your Dog
By Teddy Spoodle
One of the most common issues when walking a dog on a lead is the pulling the dog does. Sometimes it may feel like your dog is taking you for a walk and you aren't too far of the truth. It makes for one of the most unenjoyable experiences and often it can cause people to stop walking there dog or limit the number of walks they do. It can lead to great stress in the dog owner and can lead to a feeling of immense frustration. The good news is that people do train there dogs to walk beside them and any dog can be trained to walk properly on the lead.



Scenario
Time to take the dog for a walk.
We get up from our chair perhaps saying to the dog "walk time", the dog responds by getting up and coming to life. We head to the bedroom putting on a coat or changing into more appropriate clothing for the walk. During this time we may make more eye contact with our dog and talk to it which leads it to bounce around and often this makes us happy because our dog is happy and can't wait to go for a walk. So we only encourage this more and more cause we want our dogs to be happy. Usually the next thing is we start to head towards the door and if you come down stairs or walk down a hallway you will find your dog runs towards the door before you can even get there. We may at this time tell our dog to slow down or calm down.

As we draw closer to the front door the dog may start to bark and spin around in circles in excitement. At this point we may get our dog to sit, even though it maybe shaking in excitement. We put the lead on our dog and pretty much as soon as the dog hears the click of the lead it stands up and heads straight at the door. It's about this time that we start to get angrier and our first out-burst maybe here, where we yell at our dog and command it to sit. We open the door and as soon as it opens our dog leaps outside dragging us with them. This makes us even angrier so we pull the dog back to us and attempt to shut the door and maybe we yell out to someone inside that we're are taking the dog for a walk. We start to head towards the road and all the way our dog is pulling us like a freight train, they may start to sniff a bush then mark it, giving us a little relief before they rocket to the next spot to mark or sniff.




It can be quite embarrassing especially when people start to stare at us and watch as our dog drags us down the street. It's around this time we may either loose it and yell at our dog or just accept that this is what our dog wants on its walk. Often on the walk we can hear the dog choking on the lead which makes us attempt to reason with the dog by telling it to wait or stop, when all this fails we let out more lead which allows it temporary relief before it charges ahead and continues to choke itself. The only way we stop the choking is by walking at its pace. By the time we get home the dog has slowed down and perhaps it may not be pulling much on the lead. That is till we reach our home. When we approach the door our dog starts to again pull at the lead and drag us to the front door.

We then open the door and our dog charges in and we look exhausted and find the walk is not enjoyable, rather it's a chore. From here we start to associate walks with negative thoughts and thus we start to become less incline to take our dog for a walk. It seems hopeless and all the tips our relatives and friends give us just don't work well or only discourage us. So being a proactive person we start to look around for information on how to walk your dog properly. After Googleing "how to stop your dog pulling on a lead" we have found this article. Or maybe you found this other ways - it's not important. What's important is that this issue is very common and with some simple tips and consistent training your dog will be walking properly on a lead.
Your Walk begins before you go for a walk:

Dogs learn from being rewarded. The behaviour of our dog is a direct reflection of how we reward our dog for certain behaviours. If your dog jumps around in excitement it's because you have rewarded this behaviour. A reward can be as simple as talking to your dog, touching your dog or even eye contact. It's important to know a reward is not just a chocolate drop; it comes in many forms and often is associated with body language. Also, hugely important, is that the training of a dog doesn't stop. There is no such thing as "training time" and then the rest of the time with your dog. You can teach a dog to sit and stay however once this stops your dog will still be learning - especially how to behave in different situations. Just like how kids don't stop learning when they come home from school.

Our energy is often another large part of how a dog behaves. If you get up and jump around all excited your dog will mimics this energy. If you get up with no heighten energy, no eye contact with your dog, nothing said, your dog will most likely get up and walk around slowly (especially if your dog follows you around the house everywhere).
How on earth does all this relate to walking your dog properly? Well the walk begins as soon as you get up from your chair. In the scenario above when we got up from our chair to go for a walk we said to our dog "walk time" which alerted our dog to heightened its energy and thus it got excited. Often we have trained our dog to react a certain way to words or body language by accident and its these triggers which cause our dogs to react like nutters sometime.

So first thing, if you are about to go for a walk totally ignore your dog and don't let on you are even doing anything. Don't make any eye contact, say nothing and try to keep a well balanced energy. Often it maybe good to visualise a reason you are going for a walk, perhaps rather than taking your dog for a walk your are walking to the local Dairy to grab a bottle of milk and your dog is following you. Remember that when you are going for a walk, you aren't walking your dog. Rather you are going for a walk and your dog gets to come with you. This is very important because without this going through our head we may do subtle things the dog picks up on which make it think it can lead you on this walk. If your dog is pulling on your lead, it means it's leading you.

So when your get ready for your walk, totally ignore your dog, give it no triggers to make it heighten its energy. Your dog's energy should not be heightened, if it is then you need to sit down and restart this over again until your dog doesn't react to you. There is no point continuing the walk if you leave the house with a dog which has heightened energy.

The front door is usually a place where your dog will have high energy (it's a trigger) so don't take your dog to the front door to put the lead on. You should put your lead on the dog away from the door, in another room. When you put the lead on make sure that the dog doesn't just take off, nor should it get excited. You should be ignoring your dog and simply place the lead on it. The dog should not even notice it has a lead on. If it does get excited when you place the lead on then you should lower the dog's energy by taking the lead off and sitting back down. Again you should never take a dog with heightened energy for a walk. Putting the lead on is an important part because this is like the front door and often is a high energy trigger. The reason why we make sure that our dog's energy is low before we move to the next step is because the dog will take this heighten energy onto the next steps and all you will be doing is training your dog to have high energy when you take it for a walk. What we are doing here is training your dog to have low energy at each phase of the walk.

Your next step is to have the dog on the lead next to you. Make sure the lead is short and you must lead your dog to the door. Don't let your dog rush the door and don't let it get in front of you. You should have full control of the dog. If you find it's pulling on the lead or getting uncontrollable you should take it back into the room you came from, lower its energy by making it sit and wait. Once its energy is lower then take it to the door again. Keep repeating this step till you can take the dog to the front door without it pulling or tugging on you.

Make it sit and wait at the door. The next part often will cause your dog to try and leap out the door. This again is a sign that your dog wants to lead the walk or is to excited for a walk. So make sure it is sitting and is calm, if you find your dog is crying you can stop it by using a command sound like "sssssssst". If you use a word like "stop" or "wait" you may put emotion into it which only punishes a dog as it only hears the sound of the word, they don't understand the word. Open the door. If the dog leaps out, shut the door and take the dog back into the previous room. Make it sit and wait till its calm. Again take the dog to the door and open it. Sit it there with the open door for about 10 seconds to give it time to get use to the outside smells and environment. You should exit the door and your dog should follow you. Once you are outside make your dog sit and shut the door. Another issue that can happen at this stage is that your dog may follow you however it may jump out the door and try to rush outside. If it does this then repeat walking through the door again until it stops doing this.

Now for the next stage. If you have a fenced property then grab a ball take your dog off the lead and throw the ball around for about 15 or so minutes - until your dog is almost drained of all its energy. Let them have a drink of water and then place the lead back onto your dog. Now your dog is ready to go for a walk. Why do we do this? They will be a lot easier to control since there energy will be low. Why go through all the stuff inside your home to lower your dog's energy? Because your dog needs to learn leaving your home with a low energy.

Make sure your dog is on a very short lead and keep them beside you. The short lead means you have control of them and they will not choke themselves. Focus on a visualisation like heading towards the dairy and getting your milk. Your dog should be beside you and you must now ignore your dog. If it tries to pull sideways you need to counter this with a short tug back towards you. Don't drag your dog, the tug should be very short and quick. This unbalances your dog and snaps it out of wanting to sniff the bushes. If you drag a dog you could injure it and possibly yourself. In a short time you should be able to pick up when your dog is about to be wayward and a simple small tug on the lead should correct it.

You need to lead this walk so you need to be confident on your walk, ignore your dog and just head towards your destination. With your dog at a lower energy they should be easier to control and with a short lead they should never get in front of you. If they do start to attempt to pull ahead of you do a quick tug and use the "sssssssssst" command to get them back to your speed. Don't let your dog take over your walk. One of the most common mistakes is using a lead that is to long and letting your dog get a head of you - then you have no control at all and your dog will do what it wants. Your dog also doesn't need to sniff every bush on your walk; this is just a territorial behaviour and should be discouraged. If you keep your dog beside you and it doesn't get away from you within a short time they will get use to this and should make walking a lot more easier.

The next very important part of a walk is when you come home. When you enter your front door your dog must be in a calm state and not excited. If we let them enter the home excited then next time we go for a walk they will carry this excitement with them. So make them sit and make sure you enter your home first. You should take them into the living area behind you in a calm state, take the lead of them and just walk away. Also make sure no one else in the home makes any fuss of the dog as this can lead to your dog thinking it's the leader of the home. Which is found in another article: Are you the pack leader? Often it's good to feed a dog after its done some activity as feeding will also cause your dog to go to sleep which is the natural dog cycle: Exercise > Discipline > Food > Sleep.

To make this work well you need to be consistent. You cannot go back to the old way of taking your dog for a walk.

Tips:
�Ignore your dog before you go for a walk
�Only go for a walk when you dog is in a calm state
�If your dog gets excited before a walk don't take them for a walk till they calm down
�Spend a good 15mins tiring them out with a ball before the walk
�To teach your dog to walk beside you, you need to have a short lead and walk them beside you the whole walk

�Visualise there is a reason you are going for a walk, for instance you are picking up some milk from the dairy and your dog gets to come.
�To control a dog on a lead do not drag your dog, use short tugs and also the "sssssssssst" command
�Keep your energy level low and consistent, never heighten your energy because your dog will only heighten there's.

�Walk at your pace not your dogs
�Take control of your walk, have a strong assertive posture
�Ignore your dog during your walk, don't give them to much attention, don't talk to them
Teddy Spoodle
http://www.spoodle.co.nz
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Teddy_Spoodle
http://EzineArticles.com/?Walking-Your-Dog&id=4716279

The Psychology of Successful Dog Bathing

The Psychology of Successful Dog Bathing

By DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
"Can I wash my own dog? It can't be that hard can it?" These are the words that I hear everyday as I go about my business working at the Pooch Parlor in Northern Idaho. Each time I walk a customer through this process, I find myself wondering why in the world something so simple is so doggone hard to explain. Washing your own dog may seem simple, but - only if you think and speak 'dog' - the language of your own dog.


I run a shop for full service and self-service dog grooming and bathing, and I LOVE it! There are dogs, and owners, of every size, every breed, and every temperament that come in to use the self-service doggie wash. Most owners are excited, some are scared, and some are cocky, but no matter who they are, or what they do for a living, there is nothing quite as intimidating for them as washing their own dog in public! The thought of doing this can give even the most confident person, performance anxiety, and for good reason! It is a true test of trust and tolerance and friendship for the person and dog companion. And, on a very basic level, it is an honest mirror for the owner, and how he or she deals with life, and with conflict. The likelihood of a successful experience for both is completely dependent upon the psychological relationship that exists between them, and, to a large extent, the ability of both to comprehend the body language of the other. You may be surprised to know that I have found that dogs are supremely better at reading their humans than their humans are of reading them. It is this relationship between human and canine, that shows itself without modesty during bathtime, and, keeps me coming to work day after day with a smile on my face.


My clients have been giving their dogs baths in my shops for 10+ years now, and, each year is more entertaining than the last when it comes to watching regular people washing their own regular dogs. The average person that comes through our doors is highly successful, which usually means - intelligent - and, because like attracts like, so is their dog. And, so why oh why, they ask me, should this simple task of cleaning their dog be so difficult? I ask them time and again, "Well, how well do you speak dog?" Invariably, their reply is a blank stare. So, this is the time to ask yourself, "How well do YOU speak dog?"
There is a lot to say about the theories of why dogs and humans behave the way they do, but I'm going to get back to the practical things to look for while bathing your own dog. The bottom line to remember is that your dog's energy and personality traits are a mirror to your own. Take this into consideration when attempting to get him into the tub and have him be happy about it.

• 1. Deciding when to bathe your dog. Timing and Personality traits: Timing is important. Look at your own needs regarding timing to know how your dog will react. Are you the kind of person that is up for anything anytime? Or do you need to accomplish your day in a scheduled, systematic way? How do you do with new experiences? Do you find them refreshing and fun, or do you feel fearful until comfortable with a new activity? Your dog is going to deal with the bathtime experience in the same way you deal with life experiences. Remember that your dog is going to reflect your own personality traits - not necessarily the traits you show the world, but the traits that are truly inside you.

a. Fun-loving, extroverted, and social humans. If you enjoy regular physical activity, then so will your dog. For this type of person and dog, I suggest you take your dog out for a bout of exercise before the bath. In the city where I work, we are fortunate to have a designated beach on the lake just for dogs and their humans - dogbeach. There is a long path to run or walk on, and there is a large beach area to swim and play in. This is the perfect scenario for pre-bath timing. The dog can choose to get muddy, run, socialize, or just enjoy being outside. In any case, the dog is able to spend big reserves of energy outside in a fun way, just like letting human children play before naptime. If you love exercise, do something like this with your dog before taking him into your own tub or a professional facility for a dog bath. A common fault of the social dog and owner: Just because you are friendly, out-going person does not mean everyone wants to accept your friendly, and out-going gestures. It's hard to fathom, I know, but it is true. If you have a very social dog (if you are a social person), it is easy to forget that many dogs (like their owners) are not social and do not appreciate the social requirements (like butt-sniffing) of others. Please remember to respect their space when in public or otherwise. Keep your dog restrained and under control, even if your dog has the friendliest intentions.

• b. Non-social, active, or inactive humans. If your personality is not conducive to social interaction, then I still suggest that you walk your dog or do something that is comfortable within your life that involves light exercise before bathing your dog. Taking a walk with your dog does wonders to alleviate excess tension or stress for both human and dog. By getting rid of stressful energies during a walk, it does not present itself during bathtime. Getting exercise is especially important for those humans,( I mean dogs), that are highly nervous. I recommend giving your dog Valerian root (liquid form) or Rescue Remedy (liquid or spray) orally 30 minutes before the bath. Both of these products are natural remedies to calming down jittery nerves- and it works great for humans too. If timing is important in your life, take your dog to a self-service bathing facility when the least amount of people are there, usually early or late in the day. A common fault of the non-social dog and owner: they communicate poorly within their own species and with other species. Many people that tend towards isolation, often do this because they never figured out how to communicate effectively in human society. Their dogs typically have the same problem. I have seen it happen many times that owners of aggressive dogs unwittingly encourage their dog's unwanted behavior, when they think they are doing the opposite. They do this by projecting their worrying thoughts about the 'what-ifs' of a social situation. Dogs of this type of owner act out their dog interpretations of their human owners signals. The dogs often pick up the 'what-if' fears of the human as the request of their human, actually creating the 'what-if' behavior to occur. Without human intervention and boundary setting by the owner (requiring advanced communication skills), it is quite common for this type of dog to exhibit increasingly aggressive behavior. Most owners are dismayed by their dog's aggressive behavior, but they simply lack the skills required to communicate what behavior they will and won't allow from their dog. I recommend that if you have a dog that is displaying increasingly aggressive behaviors to consult a professional dog behaviorist or trainer. Just a few simple tricks will convey an accurate message to a dog that is most likely misunderstanding your expectations.

Language barriers for humans and dogs. Its no surprise that miscommunication between owner and dog happens often. If you are a human that is finding you don't understand why your dog does what he does, remember, you are learning a whole different language and culture. Give yourself time and give your dog time to understand each other. Just don't expect your dog to act like a human, especially during conflict. It takes time and practice for anyone to learn a new human language. It's no different learning dog language. We all know how to interpret a human smile in society. When a dog pulls his lips back over his teeth, it typically doesn't mean he's happy! Would a human dream of greeting a new acquaintance by sniffing their butt? Right! But, in doggie language, that's the equivalent of shaking hands. A dog that shakes his head to get the slobber off of his mouth is no different than a person smoothing his slacks or dusting off his shirt to look more polite. The differences are huge, so give yourself and your dog a break if you have hit a communication block wall.
2. Deciding where to bathe your dog: There are not a lot of choices when it comes to bathing your dog. A. You can use your own bathtub at home which requires no human socializing - hard on your back, it's very messy with extended after cleaning, and potentially traumatizing to human and dog. B. Bring your dog to a self-service doggie wash shop - easier on your back, requires some basic social skills by owner and dog, can be noisy and hairy, requires no after cleaning, and it does cost more than just the shampoo. C. Tie the dog to a fence and wash him with a hose in the yard (hopefully on a hot, sunny day) - not easy on the back, hard on the dog with cold water, potentially traumatizing for nervous dogs, but does not require human or dog socialiaing. D. Wash the dog in your nearest lake -which is very popular in my neck of the woods - hard on the back, requires advanced human and dog social skills, is potentially harmful to the environment, and how clean can you really get a dog in lakewater?
Regardless of where you wash your dog, take into account your own physical limitations, and your dog's physical limitations. Is it worth wrecking your bathroom and hurting your back to wash your dog at home? For the clients I see, the answer is a definite, no! Emotional requirements are often a factor for dogs. For instance, (in general) Labrador retrievers have no issue being bathed in a lake (even though they don't get clean), but they often resent being restrained in a tub with a sprayer hose pointed in their direction. For a farm dog that has never been away from home, tying them to the fence is a better solution than trucking them to the city and asking them to have manners in a grooming shop, or in a populated lake. At least next to the fence, even with cold water, they are comfortable with where they are and what is expected of them.

• My vote is, of course to find a self-service doggie wash facility. The equipment is professional and easy to use, the water is warm (most of the time) and typically the dogs get treats when they walk out the door, which makes them happy campers. So, for those that want to know about washing your dog at a laundradog facility, here you go:

2. Getting your dog in the tub and getting him to stay there! At this grooming shop, the average dog that comes in for self-service is around 100lbs. All the dogs are washed at waist level where they stand on a grate in the tub. Getting them in the tub can be a trick. It's kind of like asking a human to put ice skates on, and stand on the ice and not worry about how to do it. The easiest way for dog and human is to not give the dog time to decide whether or not he wants to. (Not the easiest task for shy or overprotective owners). The owner is given a large choker chain or cloth noose which goes around the dogs neck.
Leading: We have the owner quickly lead/pull the dog up the stairs with another person on the other end of the dog to give a quick boost on the butt end. The dog is on the grate, and in the tub before he has decided to be worried about it. Once the dog is in the tub, the owner hooks them in (not something you can do in your tub at home) to a variety of metal hooks inside the tub.

• Choking: The dogs that are new to having a bath will sometimes turn in the tub and pull on the choker chain. We prefer the choker chain to a regular noose because the dog quickly learns with a choker that he is in control of whether or not he feels the choking sensation. The second the dog realizes he controls his own choking, AND realizes his owner is going to allow him to learn this (this is very difficult for the overprotective and/or mother types of owners-most all of us!), the pulling behavior stops. With a regular cloth noose, or one that does not self-regulate, the dogs will pull and pull and often never learn that they have the control over their own pulling more than any other behavior during the bath. Owners feel like they are directly causing their dog injury and should rescue them immediately when they hear them coughing and sometimes gagging. It is natural to feel concern over your dog choking, but it helps to think of the dog's pulling and coughing similar to putting a toddler into his crib for a midday nap.

Many human toddlers HATE taking a nap and will cry hard enough to cough and gag. If parents rescue them from their cribs when this happens, they are reinforcing this coughing behavior for their child. Parents that monitor the crying, and coughing from a safe distance where the toddler cannot see them, soon find that their babies submit quietly to naptime without expecting to be rescued each time he utters a sound. Naps and baths may not be pleasant to begin with, but they are both essential habits of life. Dogs have the same learning behaviors regarding rescue. Owners that react with excessive concern over the pulling (as the dog is expecting), or crying and screaming tantrums, find they are only encouraging more pulling and tantrums from their dog. This point is so crucial that it is worth repeating. The more upset and worried the owner gets over the dogs behavior, the more they get of that dog behavior. If the owner is calm and without fear - and projects this to their dog, it is not long before the dog understands that pulling on the chain is only hurting himself, and that tantrums are a waste of their energy. When the owner believes everything is fine despite pulling and tantrums, the dog does too, and he stops the undesirable behavior accepts that today is bath day!
So many nurturing owners find this part difficult, but try to remember, when you expect your dog to learn how to control his own anxiety, he will learn, but it requires that you LET him learn. The best ways to learn to control ones own anxiety is to actually go through the experience of having the anxiety and dealing with it. If you are the type of owner that cannot allow your dog to experience this emotion without taking over and stopping the experience, your dog will learn to go into an anxious state more and more easily because of the reaction that he can expect from his owner. This becomes upsetting for both dog and owner and as you can see becomes an escalating cycle. If you allow your dog to go through this experience of the bath, anxiety and all, you will see that they will calm down and before you know it, you have a dog that allows you to bathe him! And having clean dog is essential to most dog owners. When your dog does calm down, i.e. quits pulling on the noose and allows the bath experience, that is the right time to express heightened emotion of happiness through praise and treats. If you take this time to praise your dog, it won't be long before your dog asks to be washed with a happy, wanting-to-please attidude.

• However, as with any rule, there are a few exceptions: old, very young, asthmatic, and dogs with neck or throat problems should be closely watched if they exhibit excessive pulling on the choker chain.

Ignore or not to Ignore: Most of the time, I recommend to owners to simply and quietly ignore their dogs protesting to get the behavior to stop (and it does), with the only exception being a small puppy (like a yorkie) or an old and fragile dog. Both the young and the old dogs that are not used to baths can injure their tracheas or create a medical problem (like asthma) if their nervous behaviors are allowed to escalate. It is in this circumstance that I tell the owners to use a harness to hook the dogs in the tub or in the case of a small and wild puppy, to use a sink or bucket in which they can immerse the dog in warm, soapy water. Puppies are wired to swim and that's what they do if they find their bodies in water. Swimming is easier to work with than a freaking out jumping bean. If you do choose to ignore your dog's protesting to the bath, REMEMBER to give lots of praise when the dog show's signs of acceptance and/or begins to calm down.
Drying Your Dog: Drying a dog depends on the type of hair, type of temperament and grooming experience the dog has. If you have a shorthaired dog, towel drying is generally adequate. In the grooming shop, we use high-power dryers that blow the water out of thick or double-coated dogs like shepards, collies, and huskies - and in this case - standard poodles.

• Put cotton in the dog's ears before you begin as the dryer is loud. Make sure there is a minimum of play in the noose or chain that connects the dog to the tub, as the more room the dog has to throw a tantrum, the more room he'll use. Start the dryer on the back end of the dog and aim the dryer side to side moving towards the head until the water is not dripping off the dog any longer. Most private owners go home with their dogs still dripping because of the tantrum factor. This is where the above information comes into play. The majority of dogs are nervous at first, but they quickly learn that the air is only loud, not painful. If the owner stays calm, the dog will quickly find this state during the drying process.

There are a few more minor steps that do occur in the grooming shop, such as brushing, nail trimming, anal expression, ear plucking and cleaning, teeth brushing and scaling and more. You can check out more 'how to' information on these specific techniques at www.thepoochparlor.net. Regardless of who you are or what you do for a living, the chances of your dog having a pleasant experience during the bath is highly dependent upon the ability of the dog's owner to understand his or her own needs regarding life and society. Consider all the factors, energy reserves of your dog - spend them before the space wherever you go will increase your odds for success. Consider how much you actually do know about dog language. Above all else, remember that you, the owner, are in charge, and that if your dog is temporarily distressed with a new situation, you have to stay calm long enough to allow your dog to understand and accept the experience. It's a curious notion that a human would have to delve into the basics of his or her own psychological needs to give their dog a great bath experience, but if you do that, you and your canine friend will have many years of happy and successful bathing experiences.

• Author DuAnn Lustig-Chambers has been grooming since 1997 and owns Pooch Parlor Pet Groomer Training Academy in Sandpoint, Idaho.

Author: DuAnn Lustig-Chambers
Owner/Instructor/Dog Behaviorist Pooch Parlor Groomer Training Academy
210 Triangle Dr. Ste. D
Ponderay, ID 83852
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=DuAnn_Lustig-Chambers
http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Psychology-of-Successful-Dog-Bathing&id=1787144